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Put them in at the same time. Done. It should give you zero issues, though you may want to make use of the adjustment screw in the AFM. Turn it all the way in to start is the most probable correct position. You can probably run as much boost as you want. But I'd look into upgrading the fuel...

For reliability: Don't cheap out, if you're going to do it, do it right. The 7M is a fine motor, plenty strong enough for 300WHP with basic maintenance. Change the oil, and take care of the cooling system, and the 7M can live a long happy life. If you've got a BHG and rod knock, it kind of...

Higher combustion chamber temps = quicker BHG? I know that a lot of people have blamed the EGR for a BHG on #6, and then accordingly removed it. I don't buy into this myself, as it makes no sense to me at all, but I've seen it said again and again. For me, it's not about emissions, it's about...

ARP bolts are 14mm 12 point. So are the nuts for the studs. The factory head bolts are a 10mm allen key head. I am not aware of any other bolt heads being used on the 7M Factory head bolts should be torques to 72 ft-lbs. (Original factory sped is 56 ft-lbs. Updated spec courtesy Reg Reimer.)...

Your oil gauge is in kg/cm^2. 1 kg/cm^2 is not 1 bar. (Though it's pretty close.) Therefore, the idle reading at 0.5 is at or above the TSRM spec of 0.3, and the cruising reading is also within spec. My '89 was at about this until rod knock started, now it reads somewhat lower. (Rod knock...

Given that Jeff is the go-to Toyota parts guy up here in Alberta, I would say that it's unlikely that these can be sourced from the dealer if he's asking about it. Therefore the only end-links that can be bought for the rear are going to be the plastic ones, which he doesn't want. If, however...

I popped in injectors, swapped in the AFM and started it up. Everything else stock, including FPR, IC, BOV. Never saw an issue with it, but that's only one person, right? Yes, the Lexus unit has an adjusting screw. It's under a plug which you have to dig out if you want to adjust it. I...

And that's the trick. I get no noticeable correction in my '89, but the '90 doesn't like to idle until after the ECU corrects itself. The '89 has the Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors, the '90 is stock AFM and injectors. Go figure.

You could pull 200WHP from a 7M-GE, but it'd probably cost about as much as a GTE swap. I looked down this path, far enough to know that it wasn't for me. I looked at turbocharging the GE (Not hard at all, really, but with some limitations that I didn't want.) Cheapest/Simplest way: Buy the...

1. Pull EFI fuse. 2. Wait 30 seconds. 3. Install EFI fuse. 4. Start and drive (nicely.) Let the car warm up to operating temperature, and drive around for an hour or so. The engine should settle down and idle better. As it learns throttle response will get better, too.

If you just changed out the AFM and injectors, reset the ECU, then let it learn in closed loop mode. Until it does so, your AFR is going to be all over the place, and rich by default. Once the ECU has spent an hour or so in closed loop mode, it will run much better. My '90 runs like crap for...

That actually sounds like the perfect idea for the spare roof in my garage... But I still want the bars.

TSRM Page LU-4 The 3000 RPM pressure reading is more important. 35 PSI is on the low end of the pressure scale, but acceptable.

Back in my IASCA competition days, I was very picky about decals on my car. My basic policy was that if nobody was paying me, and paying well, then I didn't need to do any advertising for them. I certainly will not BUY a decal to put on my car. I follow the same policy with the clothing that I...

When setting fuel pressure, you also remove vacuum from the AFPR, or check pressure with the engine off by jumpering B+ and FP at the diagnostic block with the engine off. With manifold vacuum it should be lower pressure.

If the price is similar to what was in the other thread, I'll take 'em. Just gotta get 'em shipped up here. Have to look into powder coating options.

When these came out, I only had a hardtop. Now, I have a targa, and though I haven't taken the top off yet, I certainly plan to, so... Yeah. These would be nice to have.

Upgrade the cooler. If you go full flow through the stock cooler, it's going to be a restriction in your oiling system that isn't going to be healthy. It was never intended to take full flow. That said, I have not done an oil flow analysis of the stock unit to see what kind of flow...

I ran 18 PSI from a 60-1 turbo on my 7M-GTE. OEM head gasket, ARP studs torqued to 90 ft-lbs. The head gasket didn't give me problems, it was the rod knock that got me. That said the "I did this and it worked" is probably the worst evidence that anyone can give. I'll supplement that with saying...

if you're getting a used JDM motor, get a 1JZ. If you get a 7M, chances are that it's either already got a BHG, or still has the head bolts torqued to 56 ft-lbs, which means that it WILL have a BHG. Or, find a rebuilt 7M (GE or GTE) that someone has put the time into to build right. MHG, studs...