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I think I'll just be getting the Toyota rebuild kit when it comes that time, and following the advice on the link the poodles posted off supraforoums.

http://cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=4101&P=1 In that layout I can only see one spring, not 4 like the Weir kit has. The guy I spoke to from Weir said the MKIII diff only had one spring. Couldn't find out if its a 7.5" or 8" though.

That doesn't come with any clutches.

I just got off the phone with Weir, and that is the kit for the 7.5" MKII diff. I personally don't know, but he told me the MKIII has a 8" diff and that kit won't work. Damn...

Those are the answers I was hoping for:) I understand what your saying about the EGR pipe. I was just under the impression that it wouldn't be an option for the first set, glad to see it is. Keep up the good work! I'll be waiting and watching.

Did you ask IJ how big his fitting is?

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96628&page=5 Check out posts 49, and 58 by IJ, might be what your looking for. 1/8" Seems small but if the orifice is only 2mm on the 7m GTE TB might be allright. Maybe IJ will say what he used.

What manufactures and turbos? Fitted for a gasoline engine application? These cars are 20 years old now. I think the BPV met there benchmark. Do you think this thread can be closed before some poor sapp thinks its a good idea and ruins his turbo/throttle body/engine like hottscennessey...

I have a few quick questions, and I don't feel like reading 300+ posts:icon_surp 1. Can you keep your AC? 2. Does the alternator need to be relocated, if so do you hae the appropriate bracket? 3. How long do you think until provisions for the EGR will be available? I only have the Maft Pro...

:wtf: Do you think Toyota pick something useless to cover there warranties? Or did they want to be replaceing turbo's??? This thread was FUBAR from the title on. If it aint a diesel, run a fucking BOV/BPV.

Diesels...lol.

I would say unbalanced wheel/tires. Had the same problema got all 4 balanced and was perfect. Also could check the U-joints. Wheel nuts tight, just a thought.

Do you know how the wastegate works? Let me dumb it down. It is normally closed. Manifold pressure works on a diaphram that ultimately connects to the WG. When manifold pressure reaches a specified pressure(Stock 7m-gte, approx 5-6psi) it over comes spring pressure and opens the WG so...

Higher viscosity will give you higher pressure, but will likely lower the flow to the parts of the engine that need the oil. Pressure is caused by resistance to flow after all. jdub may shoot me down for those comments but thats how I see it. With that being said I switch from 10-30 to GC 0-30...

I think you'd be hitting fuel cut if it was a major leak. Check your wastegate/actuator, broken spring maybe? A good stupid quick way to check, only if you have good self restraint:naughty: Pull the signal hose(vac line) off the WG actuator, plug it, and go for a quick drive. I think...

She aint a piano;) But seriously, I think I'll be switching to Yoda red...better safe than sorry.

Do the things I suggesested in post 3, trust me its a good place to start. Notice how "Codes" is link, it takes about 30seconds to check. As for the Bvsv, it looks like it's bypassed, no biggie, your simply pulling a vac on charcoal cansister when your engine is cold. It's there to eliminate...

Yah mechanics got a pretty bad rap for being shysters. Theft by deception, IIRC. Were not all bad.

Hmmm, prolly not the same problem as you 87... 7M, sounds like you KNOW what your problems are, not being snotty, nor did it sound like you came off that way.