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Not sure if anyone's mentioned this, but check out rockauto, they seem to have really good prices on a lot of the little oem things. Should save some cash vs. what I saw in your list. Also, Albert does a good rebuild on the ct-26's. I'm sure you can find his thread on here.

A little update: Finally found time to install the new AFM. No more code 31 as of the 45 minute drive I took, but the fuel-cut type problem still exists. I noticed that when it happens, there's quite a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust. Anyone should be able to figure that one out. Boost...

I installed a touchscreen pioneer double din with the am to fm antenna adapter, so the antenna doesn't pop up anymore and make my car look like an rc car.. Also put 4" infinity reference speakers all around. Had the 6.5", but didn't know about the speaker pod adapters at the time, so I returned...

Those are the truck-lite's, they put out a good amount of light from what I've seen. But since they're not sold in sets, you could retro-fit some nice hid projectors for the $450 you'd spend on these. I think I remember seeing one person with these on a mkiii. They look good, but I personally...

Well I finally got the tach working. Wasn't a faulty unit, but forgot to switch a couple wires back from when I re-pinned the igniter connector. The idle is smooth, about 1500 rpm cold, and just a little high at 850 rpm warmed up. Anyways, I did a couple quick pulls, and here are the rpms at...

Definitely a butchered harness, but not too horrible. Pretty sure the P/O thought he was a master electrician by some of the things I've found, mainly on the body harness though. The tach signal wire has continuity from the igniter to the ecu, ecu to IG at the diagnostics box, and from the ecu...

I'll start looking for another AFM then. My engine bay was pretty dirty, so it wouldn't surprise me if the filter picked up some debris and messed with the sensor. As much as they seem to be, I have a slight feeling the AFM and the rev issue are not linked. When I put the new AFM in, the engine...

1987 turbo 5-speed Pretty much stock: -Cone filter -Upper hard pipe with knock off blow-off valve to atmosphere -3 inch exhaust turbo back no cats -12 gal fuel cell with external fuel pump and filter (probably an ebay kit) All mods were done by the previous owner, I've just been fixing his...

I bought a beater '87 for $1100, wasn't running, sat on a farm for several years. He said he had it running, but couldn't get it to run when I showed up to buy. The body is decently straight, a few dents I can pull but the paint is shot. Missing trim, bumper, a lot of odds and ends. The main...

Whether you're auto or manual.. shifter bushings. A new radio and aftermarket speakers make a world of difference too.

Here's a very detailed thread about how the lex/550 upgrade works. Interesting, but basically all you need to know is that it works.. http://suprasonic.org/lexusriemer/lexusnotes.html Anyways, take a drill bit and drill this out. Don't worry about drilling too far, as you're just drilling out...

You don't have to buy a new screw, just drill out the aluminum cap on the AFM and dremel a slot on the existing screw. Then just grab a flathead and adjust it.

Have you messed with the Lex Afm adjustment screw at all? I have the same setup as you, but with a 60-1. Have yet to hit fuel cut, running 18 psi. Just tuned it by adjusting fuel pressure and that adjustment screw on the afm. I think there's an old thread by Reg Riemer explaining the whole...

Well I'm not exactly sure what it was, but code 14 is gone. After replacing plugs, plug wires, coil packs, igniter, checking all of the wiring, and resetting ignition timing, I figured out that was only the start to my problem. The car still won't start. But I sprayed starter fluid in the TB...

Where at in the harness? Because I've ran temporary wires from the ecu to the igniter and the cps. Also did it between the igniter and the coil packs. The harness is a little hacked up, but I stripped the plastic off and checked it out by eye. Seemed to be in pretty good shape, but you never know.

So an update to this.. Still cant get it to turn over. Found out there was spark on 2, 3, 4 and 6. No spark on 1 and 5. So I bought a new coilpack. There's spark across all the cylinders now. Ordered new plug wires. Just for safe measure, these seem a little old anyways. Should get the new...

I was assuming it had spark as I could hear popping in the exhaust as if it were firing but not starting; also when the starting fluid ignited in the throttle body, something had to spark it. When I originally tested spark, the tool I was using wasn't working properly. Or I didn't set it up...

Nope I'm down in Pensacola now, otherwise that'd be awesome. I think I'm just going to buy some used coilpacks/igniter. I didn't test the packs today because I don't have a 12v source, but I rechecked spark and found out something weird.. Cylinders 4 and 6 have spark. Cylinders 1 and 5 don't. 2...

I tried running a new wire for the IGf. Didn't change anything. So I ran wires for the IGt, IDGa, and IDGb as well. Nothing. So I guess my suspicion of shotty wiring was false. Also, I tested resistance on the coil pack harness and wires between the coil pack harness and the igniter. All...

Get a Driftmotion "cat-back." Comes with a silencer that makes it plenty quiet. Take it out and its loud as hell at WOT.