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Were the guides replaced?

They are pressed in but they are not an extremely tight fit. I was able to use a big pry bar to pry them out. They have a metal washer on the bottom, you can pry between the subframe and the washer and they popped right out (it did take a lot of force)

For the record, replacing the sub frame bushings completely resolved the clunk!!

Were you able to set your clutch pedal freeplay properly? I dont't know anything about that swap but if you have the proper freeplay, then the clutch isnt hanging up and it wont cause it to slip

Thats just how it is unfortunately, the kit isnt perfect. They really could have improved it by making the lengths and bends a little better.

Measure the crank journal and the bearing bore/rod big ends, then you can use the chart to figure out what bearing you need to get the clearance you desire. You are just guessing if you are using plastigauge and worn out bearings to figure which new size you need.

Ive had the same one you describe for as long as I can remember. I replaced every ball joint and suspension bushing including lower control arm bushings and its still there, though not as bad as previously. Only thing left is subframe bushings. Too bad the stock ones are not available anymore.

Anyone know if 89+ front lower control arms will fit a pre-89 subframe? Pre 89 front lower control arms are discontinued. I went with poly bushings, but would definitely prefer OEM rubber

Yes! I completely resolved it by getting rid of the maft pro and never looking back.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=18 Take a look at this manual. It shows you how you need to remove the harness and terminals in order to separate the headlight stalk from the rest of the wiring.

Not sure what exactly you bought, but as far as I know if you just buy the stalk, it will come with terminals on the wires which would fit into the old connector. You use a small pick tool or miniature flat blade screwdriver to remove the old unit from the connector, then slide the new wire end...

I cant really remember because it was so long ago, but I think you can just de-pin the connector, the new one should come with terminals attached.

Well it appears that the pre-89 factory lower control arms are discontinued from Toyota. Does anyone know if the 1991 lower control arm will fit without issue on a 1987 subframe? The part number is different.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?98686-Oil-pump-drive-shaft-failure.

Is it normal for the mixture to richen up significantly for a moment after increasing the throttle on the highway? When cruising on the freeway at 3k RPM, if I go from say 15% throttle and ease into 30% throttle, the wideband shows the mixture go way rich, about 12.5:1, then it moves back to...

Yes you need an adapter, I believe this is the one http://www.es-refrigerants.com/products/w/id/260/t/316quot;-to-14quot;-adapter/details.asp

Make sure you torque that crank pulley bolt to spec, seen a lot of crankshafts destroyed from that bolt coming loose. Either use a chain on the back of the crank to one of the flywheel bolts/engine block bolts or put the car in 5th gear with the ebrake locked once its all together, assuming...

For what its worth I always seem to get some oil in there. No matter how well I seal everything, some oil always ends up in there, either from the valve covers or the hex plugs. I've just come to accept it lol.

This is worth a read http://www.suprasonic.org/public_html/sonictech/mk3/mk3_pmtn.html EDIT I've been beat

I think you misunderstood. If I rev the engine and let it come back to idle, it causes the clutch to stop dragging and then it will go in and out of gear fine after that, it doesn't have to be at a certain rpm to get it out of gear. Just revving the engine makes it stop dragging. I know I...