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Won't it have to be changed in the ecu? The ecu controls the opening and closing of the intake valve, correct? This may not gain any power, but would seem to have a more aggresive power band.

It would be way to big of a pain in the ass to mess with anyway, there's no point. I just thought it might be more easily adjustable since it's Not as complicated as other systems. It's a very effective system in helping produce better low end torque, and high rpm power, Pretty High end...

well with Honda's vtec and the nissan 350z etc... The transition goes into Short runner once the engine's done producing it's torque... vtec is at around 5k right where the torque ends, 4800-5000rpm is where they should activate.... there's no point it in kicking in early... I have a feeling...

there's no reason for them to activate so early, the engine is designed to make maximum torque at 4,800... I can tell that there no gain having them activate at 4,000rpm because it doesn't start pulling until 5k... I guess since it's gonna be that hard i'm not gonna worry about it.

I hate the flat spot in the power band, 4,000rpm is to early because it doesn't start pulling until 4800-5000rpm where the Torque comes in... it's like pull to 4k then Flat spot... until 5k then it starts pulling again, Secondaries should open later for a better power band.

I wonder what's mines making. it's got a cold air intake, 10k on the engine, no egr, obx header, straight thru no cat exhahust with 2 resonators including a magnaflow for a nice tone, and a dual slanted tip muffler... and a stage 1 spec clutch kit. I want to just pick up a 7mgte turbo...

Well yes.

Beautiful build man! I love the 7m-ge... Nice daily driver engine, With plenty performance... I didn't read everything & wasn't sure if u were turboing it, But now that my Rebuilt 7m-ge has about 10k or so I wanna Boost mine... Engine Has nice pull anyway, lots of torque at low rpm for pulling...

i paid $215 shipped on ebay. It's a wonder header. Just need Quite a bit of modification, Stock downpipe is 2"!!!!! stock was 2.25" or maybe ever 2.5" .... Get the ypipe welded.. Cut that Bullcrap o2 sensor deal off the header and weld an o2 bung in place.. then screw ur sensor in so it's in...

I would really like to know how to raise the activation of the secondaries to around 4800-5000rpm where the torque comes in so there's not a "flat spot" in the power band.... torque comes in at 4800rpm so the secondaries should activate into Short Runner mode for high rpm power to 6,000rpm where...

I know, But when that plastic seal on the bearing pops out, Then the toilet method works awesome... Just takes time... fill it up, Tap, Fill it up, Tap, over and over again, Until the bearing comes out, Again the toilet paper has to be wet.

Will my Digital Multimeter even work for testing this? I don't know what the hell to do to test this... Like where do i put the Positive terminal and Negative? and what do i set the multimeter to? I DON'T KNOW IF I'M DOING THIS RIGHT...?!?

The new AFM was $200, Pretty darn expensive!

I took some pics and some videos... The idle is really screwy and it sounds like it's missing, but still drives fine. The gas milage is horrible, Seems like a lack in power, idle isn't smooth... also the ignition timing is screwed up... like it flucuates pretty drastically from about 15* BTDC...

So, the same as following the TSRM on Resistance between each terminal, But rather than on the AFM, Test the resistance on the AFM connector? Should the key be in the "ON" position? (engine not started, But electronics On). I have a question about this code. What kind of symptoms could this...

How do i test my wiring?

I've been getting this code 31 for a while and i bought a brand new afm... I've cleared the codes and it always comes back. I unplugged the connector and blew both connections out and cleaned them up and plugged it back in but it's still throwing the code... What's up with this?

how much do a set of new flyhwheel bolts go for?

What if i just saved the money and put some Red thread lock on each bolt and torque them to 65 ft. lbs.?

Ok, I didn't know that. I just haven't heard that anywhere, Considering the Haynes, Chiltons, and TSRM don't mention to replace them.