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Overall length of the W58 and R154 is different as well, which is why you need the whole half driveshaft, and not just the yoke. Probably easiest to change over the whole driveshaft. If you also change over the differential to one with a compatible ratio, your speedometer will remain accurate...

Well, at some point, I get tired of 'swimming upstream' just to be right, and just want to convey information, which is where I'll use the term "strut" to refer to a damper on the Supra chassis. (Though I do laugh about the coil-over thing.)

Yeah. My V8s were faster than my Supra is ever going to be in the quarter mile, but I'm not building it for the quarter mile. I'm not building it to be faster, but it already is more fun.

With just the Lexus AFM and 550cc injectors, a tune isn't really POSSIBLE outside of the bypass screw and fuel pressure. (And fuel pressure is only possible with an AFPR in addition.) If your fuel system is in good shape, the TCCS ought to be able to adapt using it's learned correction, since...

You can get used to anything, when it comes to power. What you must remember with those other cars is that what you're getting is still a factory tuned car. That means that it's going to FEEL like it's a factory tuned car. Your Supra won't be. For one thing, turbocharged power comes on, and...

The Mk1 and Mk2 both had McPherson strut suspensions. The Mk3 and Mk4 have double wishbone suspensions. http://www.toyotaracing.com/trd/parts_catalog/chasis_suspension/suspension_types.html Strut suspensions are lighter weight and much cheaper to manufacture, but have larger limitations on...

Vaseline. I suppose other lubricants could do the job as well, but it's a tight fit on the stock accordian hose. Edit: FWIW, I tested for leaks with my injectors by turning on the ignition and jumping B+ to FP in the diagnostic block while the TB was still off the manifold, so that I could see...

Well, before you damage other things in the suspension, you'd better check everything. Check bushings in the upper and lower A frames. Make sure those aren't moving around on you. Check both tie rod ends. Does the car only shake while braking? Does it only do so when NOT braking? There could...

Why not just clean out the temp sensor on the dashboard so that the climate control can do what it does? I've never had any problems with temperature control with my temp set wherever, A/C on or off (Unless it's A/C off, and it's hot out, in which case it can't get cool enough.) Never had any...

The bulk of the transients is half that. A failed diode will produce much larger values than that. Automotive DC is notoriously noisy, which is why every circuit that I've ever seen designed for a car has got some sort of filter on the power input. Oh yeah. Keep in mind that the fuel pump...

To tell if you have PPS, you look at the rack. It has an electrical solenoid on it. The pump itself is unlikely to leak. It's probably the pressure hose connection, though a loose hose clamp might allow a drip from the feed tube.

Not stock, but the ARP head bolts/studs are 14mm 12pt, and the ARP flywheel bolts are 1/2" 12pt. I don't remember the size or pattern for the ARP mains, but the rod bolts are 6pt.

It WILL fit with the stock accordion hose, but you'll need to work with it for a bit. I've done it, and I know others have as well. I'm no longer using the stock hose because I have a turbo with a 4" inlet.

Also there is an airspace always left at the top of the tank, note that the filler neck is not at the tank's highest point. Failure to leave an airspace there could cause nasty tank pressuring issues if you put in cold fuel on a hot day. For the low fuel light, that's a function of the sender...

You should bypass the J tube at the point that you upgrade either the fuel pump, or the pressure regulator. The fuel pump because it will flow more, and the J tube can cause elevated fuel pressure there. The pressure regulator because the restriction can throw off the regulator. You should also...

Smoke, or steam? Steam can be condensation being steamed out, or it can be coolant. Condensation happens, and is worse if you make short trips, where you don't let the engine reach operating temperatures. I've seen the oil cap mayo happen in cars used for short commutes, without a BHG. Coolant...

@Doat: Get the AFPR. It's really worthwhile with the larger injectors, particularly with the upgraded fuel pump. You'll be heading off problems right there. @Faye: I'm very good at both, and crimping really is the best way. Back when I had crappier tools and wasn't as good at it, I used to...

Installed new targa seals. Well, most of them. A previous owner did some pretty egregious things to them. The front and rear had silicone all over them. I was prepared for that. I removed as much of the silicone as I could. The ones on the side though took my by surprise. They're glued into the...

Code 22 should be easy to fix. Just do it. (Open or short in water temp signal.) Probably disconnected at the sensor. I believe that this can be replaced with a single female spade connector if the wiring connector is broken. Code 51 is probably a TPS calibration error. Just fix it.

It's definitely the reverse light switch, and according to the TEWD Page 78 it's a completely different connector for the auto. But if you look at the diagram on that pace for connector "C", that's definitely it.