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It's a matter of where in the chain the holes are. The squirters get pressure early in the chain, so a pressure release there reduces available pressure to the main bearings, rod bearings, cylinder head, and turbocharger. The slots in the rods get pressure AFTER the crank, and rods, so a...

Check the alignment and placement of the striker. If the doors sag, there will be wear along the top of the striker. It's fairly easy to spot. Also check that your door latch mechanism is well lubricated. Some white lithium grease in the door latch mechanism can help things out. Both my cars...

Don't drill the oil squirters unless you don't want oil pressure in the rest of the engine. The oil squirters are pretty close to the start of the oiling system, so if they don't hold pressure, you won't get any to the rest of the engine. Edit: As per thie diagram here...

Physics has nothing to do with it when there's no turbo to have a leaky turbo seal. My '90 smokes pretty hard on decel, and still does after swapping out the turbo. It's definitely valve stem seals, which I knew beforehand.

Am I the only one who finds it odd that this was posted in the GE section then? So far as I know, the crank should never be splashing in the oil, splash comes from the oil which is forced out the sides of the piston wrist pins and crank journals from the oil pressure of the pump. A scraper may...

Centering the steering wheel isn't hard, but it's something that I expect the shop to do for me. I'd do it myself at that point. If you can let go of the wheel and it doesn't pull to the side, then it's not a big job. Usually it can be done by driving and observing where the actual center of...

The starter system isn't hard to diagnose. You are getting power to the ignition switch if the car runs. You've just got to test that you're getting power from the key cylinder switch on the ST1 wire. (Test voltage drop under load versus the power feed to the ignition switch.) Then test that...

Well, there's not that much aside from the blue stuff that's too far from stock in the pics. Well... Koyo "race" radiator, 4" inlet turbocharger, Lexus AFM, PS reservoir relocated to stock filter housing, HKS SSQV with recirc, modified 3000 pipe, Aeromotive AFPR, and a lot of eBay blue silicone...

Second visit to my friend with a powder-coating setup. A couple of pipes, and the water outlet. The pipes installed. The intake manifold, HKS BOV pipe, ISC and PCV pipes were done previously, this is just the 3000 pipe and the other intake pipe for today. Also done today is another...

Ground pin 4 on the starter relay. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=122 This grounds by default through the theft deterrent computer, As seen here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=038 Grounding that pin directly bypasses...

I have the hyper medallion. I love it, but I don't like loud. At many owner's meets, I'll have the quietest car there. Even though it's quiet, it has a very nice deep sound, but does not drone at all.

75 ft-lbs is as high as you would ever want to go with the stock bolts, and for even moderately upgraded engines, is fine. (72 is the number that Reg Reimer came up with having the stock bolts tested as keeping them in their elastic region, and more than that will stretch the bolt, resulting in...

Pi had your solution for you. Use a VSV, like the one that you had on your 7M for EGR, or the heater valve. You can completely replicate the behavior of the ported TB by using a combination of a coolant temp sensor and the TPS. You want to open the VSV when coolant temp is over 35 deg C, and...

I've had the car start with 7.5V at the battery. (With a push start. I'd left the dome light on overnight. Fortunately, I'd parked on enough of a slope to be able to start it with the clutch.) This should verify that 7.5V is enough to have the ECU, ignition and fuel injectors operate. That's the...

Well, cables will cause the car not to start, but shouldn't make the battery go dead, unless the cables cause a short. My car doesn't last too long for a charge without some help, but that's the security system. I can measure draw with the system armed (Which is actually less than the system...

If low works, it's not the resistor. High is the only speed that would bypass the resistor, or most of it. Note that other things depend on a number of conditions, so without knowing where you installed your switches, I am unable to predict behavior, however, as I said, low ONLY works if the...

Remember, knock doesn't set a code, it just retards timing while the ECU thinks that it's happening. The knock sensor code is the code 52, which usually indicates a wiring fault. It does NOT indicate that you're getting knock, it indicates that the ECU isn't sure. The result is that it assumes...

Drilled and/or slotted rotors eat pads faster. Since I don't track my car, why would I increase my maintenance costs unnecessarily? With regular rotors, I have never hit brake fade, and there's always been enough brake to engage the ABS, so I've always had enough braking. Better braking for me...

Well, given 1000cc injectors and the stand-alone, you probably are good for over 500 ft-lbs torque, which puts you at a minimum of a stage3+ clutch. That turbo will make all the boost that the 3L displacement is going to take, so how far you go is up to you. I have an ACT stage 3, which I like...

I like my security system and remote start. While my '89 was NA, I had it done up as an IASCA SQ car, so the sound system was quite valuable. (Enough so that someone decided they needed it more than I did.) The car is also a 5 speed. I got used to using the E brake and not leaving it in gear...