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I just replaced my stock clutch(w58) and pressure plate with a Kevlar compound disk and a rebuilt stock PP. I am slipping pretty bad and my release fork is not being released meaning the piston is putting pressure on the fork even when the clutch pedal is all the way .... how do i fix it? :1zhelp:

I was waiting for someone to step to the plate and say what they spent on a stock rebuild ......

after all this i am like whatever man ::dead horse:: if you think that was the best deal you could get i would love to sell you a jdm 7mgte for which should normally cost 900-1000 for 1500 it only has "30,000-60,000 miles" :evildeal: i promise ...............

Well have you followed the large 3 holes on the accodian hose? I bet one of them supply vac to something that plugs into the valve covers and possibly sucks up some oil from there ..... Thats why people run oil catch cans to avoid that

Im with Dr J on that compression test and if it checks ok make a plan go foward :)

Do you remember how the stock BOV was connected ? It had a nipple that was connected to a vac hose that connected to a hard pipe located infront of the 3000 pipe ..... Just do the samething i dont mind the stalling i just tap the gas pedal and i became used to it ..... but it will do until i go...

CDN? Whats the conversion rate to dollars? Well with forged internals and a rate of $75 h/r or whatever they charge for the labor i can see that price 1500 for rebuild stuff + 1200forged stuff + 700 labor

When dealing with anything you should alway check things out yourself first shop around to get an idea of what things cost and how/why they function. Sometimes well most of the times its almost cheaper to buy a part yourself vs having the mechanic buy it ..... since most are trying to make a...

Those things come standard to me i should have stated that :nono: mybad ..... thats why i feel $1500 is good bet but not $3000 add $150 or so to polish the crank but it could be more or less depending on the person who is doing it and around $75 to hone the block

Ya please do that ...... sounds like u got raped. You should have went forged all the way with that type of money :stickpoke

Does anyone else think that 3000 for stock rebuild is waaayyyy to much .... or am i the one that is off?? From what i remember ........ MHG -$200 Gasket Kit $200 Piston Rings 70 Oil Pump $150-200 Rod Bearings- $30-50 Main Bearings $40-60 Arp head bolts $100 Valves 3 angle w new stems...

Well thats one issue u are having. The air that was supposed to enter the engine to make your fuel ratio correct is not there when it vents ..... which causes you to run rich when you left of the throttle

Are u running a BOV that is venting into the atmosphere?

Did u do the work yourself? If not break down parts and labor. Define the "proper way" please. I assume you mean cryo treats rods or forged internals which i doubt since you said a stock rebuild, FACTORY valve kit, blue-printed and balanced if so then i can see $3000 worth but thats with...

Roughly how many miles have u put on that boss turbo?

::fundy:: no harm done:drink1:

Yea i agree with that i shift a little bit after the 5500 range just b/c someone told that with basic mods the 7m does not do well with winding out the gears to redline and also there is not a lot of power to be had in those ranges. Seems like a good way sooo far

Have you tried the old school way before the net? Put for sale sign on it. I drove around with a for sale sign on my car and a bunch of people actually wanted to buy ..... but i was not really selling her. There were a couple of people who wanted to give me 3000 and the body was not in the...

If you dyno it and learn the hp/tq curve can you use that as a means to know the general range you should shift?

I believe those turbos are good for some good numbers and boost is addictive. If you are going to build a motor that it going to be running close to 400rwhp or higher why not build it to handle more. Think of it like this if you have turbo that peaks at 20psi and you run it at 20psi every day it...