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Its different depending on the material and the manufactor. But for the most part a couple hundred miles of stop and go. Or to be on the SAFE side act like you are breaking a new motor. The clutch i had custom built did not have a break in period :evil2:

What are fd3s

Not so much hurt the final whp because most dyno king/queen cars lag for ever on the street ...... i am asking about the actual lag caused by these long custom pipes all over the place? (exhaust and IC piping included) Or does that fact that a 5.0, 5.7, etc. motor moves way more air naturally...

right behind the headlights:evil2: ....... with all the piping in some of the custom v8 single and twin turbos is there alot of lag or does the amount of air that is being displaced(5.7V8 vs. 3.0 I-6) compensate for alot? Does the powerband seem more linear ...... When i hear the spools on...

i am not sure what you mean ..... but if you go underneath the dash you can adjust the free play by turning the entire shaft that runs from the pedal to the master cylinder. If you only turn the clip at the end of the shaft that goes to the pedal you will adjust the hieght of the pedal

Pics and results ......for $300 i am in

Yea thats a good point i do all my work myself. When i run into a problem that i cant solve i go to my friends who have shops that work on little every day type cars and if they cant figure it out i will post on the forums but ...... but how many people will actually be able to do a complete...

What is the way you feel based off of? You should put together a price tag for 450-500rwhp reliable 7m, 1jz and 2jz in an MKIII body and i am sure you will change your mind. Bang for the buck = 7m PERIOD. 7m Head gasket, shot peened internals, arps, maft pro, 550's, AFPR, fuel pump, turbo...

Why do you say that? Share the knowledge :evil2:

i would like to see a dyno chart of a 450+1jz and a 450+7m ....... just for reference purposes:slap: (7m on the left)

lol classic response the 1jz does makes tq no doubt just not like the 7m ..... 7m's often make more tq than hp. How does the power delivery feel with a high powered 1jz? All i ever hear is how the stock power level is sooo smooth like an NA almost ....

i would say to get a 500rwhp reliable 7m hhhhmmmmmm since i am aiming for that power range and i have been doing some price "shopping" Gasket Kit $200 MHG $250-300 Piston Rings $70 Oil Pump $150 Rod Bearings- $60 Main Bearings $60 Arp head bolts $100 Valves 3 angle w new stems $300...

well i would just get a hard line from a junk yard and CLEAN it with some brake cleaner or buy a new one from the dealer ..... the wires i am talking about is the neutral switch it tells the ecu that car is in "park" or "neutral" so the car can start

i did mine back in feb ...... i can give you pics of what wires you need to splice together a to make her start it was only 2 that u "NEED" and 2 others for your reverse lights

I just bought a JDM set of bilistien(*sp) shocks i know the stock springs are black but these are red ...... any clue of what springs come in red i know of one :) eibachs

No offence but are you saying that brent has a 400rwhp NA-T with a stock H.G.:3d_frown: ?????? Keep in mind he is thinking about bolting on a turbo to the GE and we dont want to confuse him with the idea that a NA-T is solid at 400+hp with a OEM H.G. ..... even the GTE's with a stock H.G. are...

if u are going to turbo it i say go MHG b/c you are raising the chance of detonation with the higher compression pistons and thats what really destroys the OEM H.G. ..... But if you are staying N/A the OEM H.G. is great just get some basic prep work done and tq it down to the ARP specs and you...

Price?

Timing its set to 10deg i swapped my coil pack and it does a lot better now and the plugs look pretty good a little bit of gray stuff built up but not much just a little and all the plugs look the same ...... i have about 16,000 miles on those plugs and wires do u think i should just change...

Yea i blew the air out with my air compressor. I have NGK plugs and Berk.....something plugs