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yeah, the the two times I blew a coupler were comical.. one time it happened at night, and I didn't realize what was going on until I saw a flash in the rear view mirror, and all the cars behind me dropping back suddenly :naughty:

I find it hard to see why any mk3 owner would have full coverage..

correct.

O_O

370z TT.. /thread (for the money MKIV would be a better choice IMO, and I like the Evo X for the record)

I checked, and they said one has to have a garage to put the car into.. lame

I believe we did the oil press when the motor was in the car, but it was a PITA IIRC. you need an oil press adapter line to distance the sender from the block.. then, generally the sender that comes with gauge will work. (that's with STRI guages) never attempted the water temp or fuel press.

this coil info is great.. thanks!

my motor sits around -21 at idle and around -23 on decel..

keep the 1J car for it's reliability, and if you decided you want more power down the line convert to 1.5J. power and reliability.. why keep an ancient piece of technology just because it has one positive out of a list dominated primarily by negatives. the reason why 7M's have a bad rep may...

JHot, Driftmotion, Kaizen.. there's others but those are the ones I'd be likely to trust.

the reason you cannot find the BOV is because that car does not have one.. you're hearing the surge between shifts.

Imo, the Rsr sounds and looks terrible.. I really enjoy my nurspec, btw i have a 1j as well. the nurspec isnt that loud outside the car, but inside it can be a little annoying at times (you mentioned long trips.. i couldnt agree more)

I did some searching on this topic and didn't seem to find too much.. anyhow, I acquired a '90 turbo driveshaft and noticed the carrier bearing was of a different design compared to my old '87 (april) shaft. I found a post on the other forums about there being two different part numbers for...

at WOT, the 1J is just fine and the same with cruising.. the difference is when the car is starting from a dead stop. The 1J could definitely use some more low end power out of boost (I say out of boost because unless you want/need crazy power, the 1J is there with the right turbo setup)

the FFIM, ECU, valve covers, and spark plug cover all clearly indicate that the head is from a vvti 1J.. N/A vvti 2J head is totally different. that ECU also appears to be from a JZX model.

18x9+35 aren't custom.. 18x10+30 likely are (due to +30 instead of the normal +24) but IMO no point in getting them made in that size. that's probably why she had them listed for less, though she still had to pay decent money for them if bought new.. standards are around 3k new and customs are...

I see them for no lower than 2-2.5k (4k new) in that condition on forums such as Zilvia etc. he will likely not accept less, especially considering those are custom sizing. (usually anything above 9.5"w and +35 is custom in SAR:V2's)

I'd say 1J of course, but the reality of that in Cali seems to be a tough one from all I've read on the issue. a U.S. 2J would be a nice option, but they're not exactly common AFAIK and expensive.

http://www.4cefed.com/groupa.html now, go find me an aussie fender roller and find a way to email/teleport it to me.. one wombat as well, thanks.