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There are all kinds of car alarm makers. Walk into best buy, circuit city, etc and they will have all kinds of them. A couple that I know are Viper and Clifford. Dunno which ones are better, but I would imagine that they are all pretty much equal, the big names anyways.

Oh. My. God.... is right. I wonder at what point though, does one or two of the three become a performance hindurance (sp). Hope nothing breaks.

HAHA.... I didn't catch the tach with the automatic transmission. Maybe it was a just in case thing.... I hate the stupid crooked license plate and the stupid cold air intake sticking out of the hood. :puke:

Mine did this too. Then I changed the head gasket and it went away. Not saying that it is a sign of a blown head gasket, but, it solved my problem.

Just keep a twig or small metal shaft with you at all times so you can stick it in the turbine wheel to keep it from moving...Presto...no boost. By the way, I don't let valet's drive my nice cars. Even when my tires are changed and they need to take a "test drive" I sit at...

Expect a negative return ($$ wise anyways) on your investment. But the fun factor should weigh out the loss. Good luck.

Maybe I am reading this wrong, but if you connect your test light to the disconnected negative battery cable and the positive battery post, the light will never turn off, until the battery dies. Another possibility is to leave the battery connected, get a volt meter and connect to neg and...

The is essentially what a test light is. Either that or get a volt meter.

Ditto.

And assuming that the crank pully hasn't been rotated on the crank. Sounds unlikely, but this happened on my old 7MGE.

See ya in a week. Off to Hawaii...not that anyone cares. :drink1: :boink:

Oh my.

Sorry man, not diggin it. Too tall. Take it off.

I thought they would have a good rep too after the research I did before buying. However, I tore down the tranny and clutch after only 500 miles and had my brand new flywheel machined to be sure that it wasn't the problem. I still have some chatter. Must be the PP.

The block looks sweeeeeet man. Good luck. Make sure you get or already got that front timing cover decked and matched to the block.

On a somewhat related topic: I have a spec stage 1 and the PP came from them warped, so now i have a high spot on the PP along with some clutch chatter. I am begining to think that Spec is garbage.

I remember someone said they could do it for around $800. That includes reinforements for the loss of stabiltiy. Anyhow, like it has been mentioned, don't do it.

:icon_frow So much for trying to get a good A/C thread started on SM...

As mention before (figgie), I knew what I was doing was not the ideal way to fix/diagnose my problem. But, not having a vaccum (sp) pump to test the system limits my capabilities to do so. I did research here (not much on SM yet so I figured I would start an A/C thread for future users to...

Very interesting.