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I should mention, if I were simply going to run at 14.7 switching point I would not be using the ZT-2 as the ECU feedback sensor for the reasons jj outlined above.

I have no idea why they're telling you not to. It works brilliantly with the ZT-2. @ 14.7 switching point, you'll notice absolutely no difference from stock.

I don't see one on DM... Regardless if it isn't Toyota, I recommend against it.

You should be able to shake the corner while in the and air easily diagnose which joint it is that's giving you the play.

I'd get the *Toyota brand* gasket kit, you will easily use 90% of what comes in the kit. It's slightly less bang for your buck since you won't be using the head gasket but most of the other stuff will go to good use. Setting the goal for a successful completion in one weekend with no block...

Gotcha, I knew I read it was on that sheet, but didn't realize they had that amendment below it for Aluminum.

85.

I've seen a few carbon drive shafts fail, and the problem spot was never a failure of the carbon but the bond that attached the carbon to the metal ends failed, so they basically just fell apart at the seams. The thought was that the carbon would flex on the much more rigid Aluminum ends and...

Only roadblock I can see possibly happening, won't show up until a little while down the road. With repeated expanding/contracting from the pressure the pipes will eventually fatigue and crack. How quickly if ever obviously would depend on boost pressure, how often you run it hard, heat, etc.

Powerhouse Racing used to offer one for our car, 150 amp, IIRC, was available. They seemed to stop carrying them online but you may still be able to get one if you call. It will cost more than most people allocate for a complete engine rebuild on their MKIII.

Aircraft mechanics are highly trained professionals, why should they need instructions? ;)

I'm okay with $7 worth of overkill, it's hardly breaking the bank! I was hoping it would have instructions, seemed like it might not because of the market. I'll do a little test spot with no primer to see how it sticks. Unfortunately I placed my order for it already so hopefully it'll stick to...

Very interesting! Can you comment on how thick the stuff goes on? Just typical spray paint thickness I would imagine from it's application... Is primer needed?

You're thinking too low altitude probably... I can prob get it in any color I like as long as it's flat black. ;) Although if that color is a medium gray-ish... then we're in business! LOL

I'm going to be using it in the interior floor, and behind some trim pieces. (bare metal.) The only place it'll really be exposed to high levels of direct sunlight will be in the hatch area. The durability is mainly for that area as well as I'd like to be able to throw all kinds of crap back...

What type/brand of aerosol paint does everyone recommend for best durability on metal? If at all possible I'd like to not have order the stuff online. Thanks!

-The antifreeze boiling point part? The one that I didn't contest after you corrected it (Without a reference, but I'll accept unless I find contradictory info)? What about it? -No, what on earth would lead to that conclusion? I would have thought after 10 seconds of thought one would realize...

Thanks! The real reason I asked, instead of jumping to conclusions, was that you seem to post exclusively to try to boost your ego by making others appear wrong. This has not only lead to questionable information being stated as fact on some occasions (which I might add, seems to be taken as...

Not sure I really understand what the pun is...

Only 11 hours... that's not much, it could go 4x that before you even see any power loss. Compression seems to be in within variation specs but low across the board for NA pistons. If you're happy with the power then my course of action would just be to monitor the can, and the state of the oil...