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The P/N is listed in the TSRM, LOL.

Neither of the P/N you listed are caps, nor look like caps, one goes from under the intake manifold to the TB, the other is the 90* hose you circled. That picture looks to be some sort of non-standard piping, the OE one looks nothing like that. The hose you circled on the left is something not...

With a pilot bearing puller... the TSRM prescribes one.

Again, 0v is not closed loop. iwant - Again, you're worrying way too much. You're likely in some degree of enrichment at anything over 35% throttle and 3k RPM. Unless you screwed with something, it's virtually impossible for you to do engine damage due to a lean condition with the stock ECU.

It's not long enough to necessitate truncating it.

What do you have that makes you think you need to tune at all?

0v is open loop and decel. You're worrying too much, the ECU kicks in to open loop way before you'll do any damage. You aren't going to make it run any richer unless you go sky high on the SAFC, and even then the ECU may recognize that something doesn't add up and throw a code or do something...

-Thats how the diagram shows length, without showing the whole length... just like every other diagram ever. -They are higher quality and are more abrasion resistant than anything you'll find for cheaper. -See above.

Well... its sort of cheap at least. LOL

I did it from under the car as per the TSRM, I didn't think it was all that bad. I find it pretty hard to believe it's easier to pull the entire engine to do it... The 3Bond and Toyota FIPG are probably the best, but any FIPG designed to be used with oil/oil pans will be better than a cork...

I think the V1 is missing some important features for me, which is why I would buy the Bel STi Driver. I currently own an RX-65 which has worked out fine as well.

I've bought a complete interior for $200, and it was in very good condition. Only a spider crack on one of the door panels IIRC.

LED is decent, but not all it's cracked up to be. Small things on a dark background can be completely invisible because it isn't large enough for that LED to be triggered. The best example I heard was stars in space, in something like Star Wars. My DVD collection = Netflix...

When I replaced mine it was worn down to nearly nothing, so it can be a bit difficult to see at 1st I suppose.

You can get hard numbers quite easily on any of the insurer's websites for this sort of thing.

If the torque isn't listed in the actual instruction then, if it has a spec, it's listed next to the fastener in the exploded view of that component at the beginning of it's section.

Mine is M6 as well.

Maybe he's talking about the screw that holds that metal bezel/bracket on the front...?

Yep, 20mm should be about right without cutting it too close, or being overly long. 16 Would probably suffice as well.

Interesting... other than looking like it has been dragging on the ground for quite some time, it looks decent enough. It does, however, look nothing like the stock exhaust. LOL