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That is VERY impressive! I thought it was a cool game, I just really sucked at playing it so I didn't get real far into it. LOL

At <10&#37; throttle I'd say it's impossible for it to be detonation. Might just be noise... IIRC EGT sensors are especially susceptible and what ever set of events you created there made it go squirrely. It does seem a bit strange that RPM is so perfectly flat without knowing what you were...

It's upside down and does not work with oem intake pipes.

Stranded? Never. Daily driven, through all seasons, for 5 years now. Nearly stranded once in Indiana with a major water leak, was able to fix it with the help of some friendly local mechanics. However, don't kid yourself, maintenance will be chronic and encompass every system on the car...

Well, which is it, ID or OD. So far you've said it's both...

If you live in a controlled atmosphere, and never chance a single thing related to the engine again, then you'll be fine for the most part. Your biggest issue will probably be finding any sort of consistency over a long term period, since your car has basically no control over fuel pressure...

Yes, I know. Last I checked your power steering would be considered automotive application. ;)

Interesting, I've never run into a -5AN for an automotive/racing application. Nor a wrench for a -5AN fitting, LOL.

-AN is ID, not OD. It's pretty obviously a -4, assuming your measured correctly and give it a wall thickness of 1/32. If it is an AN size and not some plumbing fitting...

I would say that's what you get for not buying the much nicer and far superior PWR. ;)

It's a straight forward install if you understand what they each do, just think about it for 5 seconds and you should be able to work it out. That's probably why no one has answered.

No kidding, look at that, I guess it's not much help. My 1st inkling would be to make sure the torque converter is unbolted from the drive plate.

Sounds like a terrible and inevitably unsuccessful idea - you'll probably sell the car before you get it working since you can't even work out the stock wiring. Why were you "going through" your factory wiring?

'You read the manual? My guess is not...

The stock FPR is rendered useless once you put a Walbro in (at least the 255HP version). I tried 2, one brand new, and neither were able to bring FP low enough to be within TSRM range; and as soon as the fuel pump relay kicked over to 12v, fuel pressure would go to ~4.2 kg/cm^2 and just sit...

Can't imagine how hard it is to apply this to a gasket... you guys must be pretty dedicated.

Well, you know exactly what the max pressure is... just look at your radiator cap.

Above ~50MPH I've found they aren't very accurate, period.

I think rivnuts are brilliant little things for light duty applications, holding on bodywork or the like. I've never had one completely pull out, but typically what happened when you put a loads on them is they loosened up and wore whatever hole they're in. So they end up needing to be drilled...

Rtfm