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If its leaking externally then yes. If the seals are blown on the inside then no. You just wont build proper pressure.

Master cylinders can let go during a bleeding process if theyre on the way out. Just cause it drove in fine doesnt mean it was in good condition. Remember its just a rubber O-ring allowing pressure to build up. If its old its gonna tear. The actual pumping action is the cause of the wear. So you...

the term staggered also applies to different size tires

Or its just simple typo. You know cuz 1 and 2 are next to each other.

Access to a hoist.

Are they gapped correctly? Propper heat range?

My eyes bleed

are you wheels and tires the original size.

Its probably a pin hole. It can still make boost, if its a pin hole it wouldnt make it hard for the turbo to over come that size of a leak.

If the damage is sever it will not go away. Usally the crank and sometimes are unsalavagable at that point.

Go to the local dealer and check to see if they still sell the replacement connectors and pins. It wont be in the normal EWD youll have to look through a catalog and find them. This way you still have the ability to remove said radio if need be.

That only happens on SEVER conditions. Under small to moderate, the noise goes away.

Why would you want to hard wire your deck? If it stops working or of you have to take it out to get to something your only gonna make problems for your self or anyone else who may own the car in the future.

rear calipers rust seized to rotors most likly cause. The diff will not sieze if the car is only being pushed around, theres not enough heat build up and parts arnt moving that fast for that to happen. If you drove it then thats a different story.

I remember seeing this car on Craigslist and Kijiji back in 2011 when I was looking for my car at the time in the GTA section.

LOL were just taught in out final level of automotive apprenticship about Diesels engines and how they use this.

I personaly agree with you about the ground issue. As even the canadian spec moddles have the problem. However we use a different ground point. But Ive also noticied that if try to start the car with cirtain acceseories on it wont. Also my other opinion is that it has to do with the actual...

Let me try this again Nitrogen at 200 Psi on both the high and low side of the system while NOT running is easier and cheaper to find leaks. Instead of chasing them down with R-134a or any other refrigerent. After youve found the leaks you can REMOVE the Nitrogen out of the system not leave it...

Again this is why you pay a shop to purge it with Nitrogen its innert and it can also be used to find leaks before adding R-134a and it can also help push out any moisture left in the system.

Flush the oil out (and replace with new proper amount) and purge the system with Nitrogen thats the best and proper way.