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i knew i should have went to college lol im interested in this...ill do some reading tonight

ST165 and ST205 ran WTA i guess ill do some more research to see the pros and cons of WTA setup at the very least i would probably get a spray bar for intercooler thanks for the thoughts so far

so if the turbo is working hard at higher elevation do to air density. wouldnt this create more heat coming out of the turbo. thus making it feel like less power due to raise of air temp? i dont mean to butt in but im eager to learn lol good read so far :)

yes the complexity of a sufficient WTA system on a daily driver/weekend warrior is a hard task to fill thats why i thought of a fmic plumped with a WTA cooler would be the best idea i figured some 6-8in puller fans would help cool front heat exchanger when vehicle isnt moving at a good speed my...

so i have been playing around with the fact of a WTA intercooler setup but all the WTA intercoolers i find are boxed in units and would not be good for daily driving(unless your ok with filling your ice box with ice everyday) on to my car setup: 91 turbo supra...80k miles automatic maft...

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call up your local autoparts store tell them yr make model ask for injector seal kit comes with everything if i didnt throw my receipt away from o reillys i would have the part number for ya i believe it was $3-5 a kit

Stock bypass valve(bov) is connected at 3000 pipe and down to the accordian hose(big black accordian looking hose that connects between turbo and afm)

hmm i think toyota would be the only place idk if the ebay gasket kit i ordered has that gasket

lol JJ has that old fart humor :) but let us know how everything turns out when my HG blows ill probably do a indepth writeup on how and what tools are needed

any who remove fuel rail, replace the o ring, lubricate it(or dip in gas...i have never done this but have heard of others doing it) check for leaks so your saying fuel is leaking around 1 of these tabs? you can clearly see(shitty pic FTW :) ) that these are just mounting tabs

those spacers are only that JUST SPACERS they dont do anything but space the fuel rail from the head so injectors can be overtightened(squeezed) did you replace the fuel injector o rings? if no then you need to do that if you did replace them did you put a thin film of oil/grease/ky jelly on...

you'll learn...im still learning BTW...the water neck is held on with 1 bolt and 2 nuts...i believe to be 12mm let engine cool down, clean area around water neck, let it warm up and see if you can see the leak depending on what year your engine is the turbo coolant feed off the water neck...

agreed i ran a stock downpipe, non 2nd cat and 2 1/2 straight pipe exhaust(no muffler) ran good but now i have a 3 in downpipe, 2nd cat installed and same 2 1/2 straight pipe its a big difference now once i get my lipp boss 61mm turbo this weekend i will be interested to see what i make...

ok then im wrong lol i havent adjusted mine for a while let me know how using a different vaccum source works for ya

also turning the adjustment screw out raises pressure loosen nut and turn it back in

ahh i see what your problem is now that vaccum line that your using is ran off the fuel pressure up vsv when i installed my afpr i removed the vsv all together switch to the vaccum line for boost sensor or remove vsv and use that line that should/will take care of the problem w/o vaccum it...

coolant leak means your loosing coolant loss of coolant to an extent can cause engine to over heat :) missing coolant is now filled with air bubbles which can cause overheating

replace the waterneck gasket to head and parking on a hill with front end up higher will help air bubbles escape

with fuel pressure at 65-70 psi and your idling at 15.2 afr which is what mines idles at with a happy vf signal i would have to say the gauge is bad try crimping the vaccum line off to see if fuel pressure raise and make sure its getting good vaccum...preferably using a vaccum gauge or...