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Just to make sure I'm understanding this right... Since E1 (X-24) is just a ground, can I just T off of the TE1 wire (W-7) and ground it to one of the bolts by the ecu to get it to show me the codes?

I'll let you know tomorrow. It will be the first time I'll have access to a timing light.

Apparently the battle is not over. It gave me 5 minutes of driving before it decided to start running like shit. Tomorrow I think Ben is gonna come over with his timing light, we'll get to the bottom of it some how or another. I'm throwing a code which I'm unable to retrieve, jumping the te-1...

Yeah... That's what happens when you drive a Ferrari Oh wait... nvm.

It runs! And I replaced so many things I don't know what fixed it! Only problems now are: There is a slight whine, sounds like the serpentine belt is rubbing against the crank pulley or something, cant tell but didn't look too much into it as I was getting bit by bugs and I am happy enough for...

Hell yeah dat, you know I'm there.

I'll have to use a tape measure. :naughty:

I pulled the harness out and redid everything. Got most everything back in again then broke the knock sensor connector (second time this has happened) I need to go tomorrow and find another one. I changed out the cam position sensors while I was at it, and I'm hoping maybe that was the cause...

I say go for the 240 and slowly add on the comforts you want, its not impossible to get AC and PS working, just a little work. as for the interior, maybe a nice set of seats, there are plenty of aftermarket ones that will give you the comfort of the stock SC seat. Like you said, you're young...

Engine bay is black and was done with just the block in the car I believe. Body work and paint was done by the painter from the shop I used to work at. He got the VIP hook up. It still has not been wetsanded and buffed so it is far from looking as good as it will eventually, you just wait...

I'll play... some dirty pond: Small blurry pic, from ~2 years ago My helmet is too big...

All you guys thinking that its the image switching make me LOL... just think about it and you'll be able to make it switch. Another idea, look at it and think "what would actually change here" if the animation did switch... it would still have to display the exact same thing to go either way haha.

:( I don't know what to do. I have a week to get my car finished or I won't have a car to get to class, which is very bad to say the least. I got the car to fire up for a split second, after about 50 tries, and had to hold it at like half throttle to get it to stay running for about 5 seconds...

No update yet, was in Austin all yesterday and today until 5am. I'll try to get some stuff done today, figure out specifically which wires are giving my problems, I really need this thing running soon!

Tested another known good tps today and the readings came out the same as mine. I decided to let the car idle for an extended period of time just to see what happened and I'm glad I did. Here is what happened: Started up and idled at around 2k rpm for about 5 seconds Idle dropped down to...

I just tested my 1j and 2j tps' side by side and found interesting results. I had the ohm meter on the idl and e2 pins on the tps, and where the 1jz tps was showing 4.14 ohms the 2j tps was showing 0.04-0.05 which is where I'd imagine it is supposed to be. This would mean my tps is broken right...

So I'm nearing the end of the swap process and have come upon these problems. It has a pulsing idle, from 1400-2100. I can mess with the tps to get it to stop pulsing... with a downside of having an idle of around 3k rpm! I'm fairly certain I've verified my ISC is in working order, as I swapped...

No supermonitor, I'm guessing at this point the cluster was swapped with an 87 or 88 turbo cluster. I still have no solid answer on what cluster/tach combination will work :(

38psi vac off. and 550's

ah, definitely missed that.