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there is a specific orientation for the two pieces as well as distance apart, I'd suggest starting with measuring a un-tampered with one, but yeah, they can be coaxed with a fairly large hammer into original place, you may want to use a mallot or block of wood to avoid damage..

Anybody?

uploaded a pic... forgot what this is^ I left it out along with some other brackets which got inconstant primer... and this; I think it is 1 of 2 hydro fan plugs, but those parts are trapped due to storing a monte carlo...

anybody know how many plugs (electrical) the 1JZ hydro fan setup has? going through the engine bay 1 last time reveals 2 plugs a 3 wire and a 2 wire (in that area - 2JZ waterpump swapped in) without a home..?

^decent livery, I personally don't like being a billboard, but it looks the business, if the chassis backs it up... I would probably try the livery with the "advan" in different colours to tone it down a notch...also I would feel funny if I weren't rocking yokohama's I'm more of a...

it seems that I always love the alberta builds.... interested to see those body mods, should be over the top... do you intend on leaving them raw or painting them black to match?

so today's dilemma; 87 MK3, 1JZ stock turbos + Ebay ypipe + MK4 motor mounts = immanent brake line destruction/ horrible noise Remove charcoal canister + EBC solenoid + filter/intake + VSV assembly = to remove sheild/solution time in my hand is the OEM bracket and in its place is a spare...

looking good... charcoal canister; http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?128582-Charcoal-canister-replacements I used the JZA70 one, roughly half the MA70 size.... but the bracket is 3 spot welds onto the firewall....

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?56843-Wheel-Fitment-amp-Question-Thread&p=1936245#post1936245 I personally prefer a square tire set up, so the spare fits anywhere... 17X9+25 for me, with a fender roll (barely any pull - in the front only), +35 is inward another 10mm from these...

how does your key look? could this be wear to the key/tumbler/end switch plate.... I can't remember right now what the part behind the ignition lock looks like, but sounds like a similar problem I had on my nissan, where the key tip protrudes through lock and the tip engages another switch...

are you going to put tractor flappers on this too?

I had to send my ebay y-pipe out, its a lot easier if you hang out with tool/die makers/CNC machinist's... but yeah, I would probably have that tended to, simpler than doing it twice... I believe mine was surfaced on a belt/table sander.... on a couple of 15 minute breaks, just a matter of...

I've seen it done wrong more than once..... you really only need to roll from somewhere around the 10-2 (if the wheel was a clock) this should allow you to leave the moulding area's alone. for me the roller got me 80% of the way there, then hammer and dollie, and little hand adjustments...

Installed front door speakers, Hertz HV165L, not even close to fitting into the 6.5" pods, not even half way... required minor door metal trim/reshape/weld attempted to wire up my power folding mirrors, only to find the switch i have is from a Carina,Corona, Caldina, and the control box from...

this weekend I attempted to wire up my folding mirrors; I used some of these links; http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/mkiii-supra/16972-power-folding-mirror-install.html...

is that an Arrow T25 staple gun? how did that make the picture? EDIT:never mind, the target don't hold themselves...

are my eyes imagining things or is your camera playing tricks? everything has a banana curve... looks real tight....

^no my shop is down 86 in the next town toward guelph...

^what are the rules in your state for abandoned vehicles at a shop? here (ontario) I think the business/lien holder has to wait (something like) 6 weeks, then run a newspaper classified ad for a while, then they can approach the ministry to change the title...

space heaters or IR lamps?