Search results

^rough up the surfaces a bit, so the glue can bite, 2 part epoxy of some type should work fine. 3m has a fexible bumper repair that works nicely for bumpers and body moldings

That last photo is from the reverse lamp? OMG, 200% + more light. I'm going to pick some of these up.

I'd be hesitant to use the honda. Mk3 has a very heavy door, targa more so. RHD, so Australia, Japan, HK, UK, passenger door (left side) hinges, But yeah, that other part, the stopper (swing limiter thing) is probably worth looking at, and you can get at it without removing an 80lb...

If you ask someone in a RHD market, the used left door hinges, will be like new... I got mine from a half cut.

I drilled holes large enough to get the nuts of the inside, using a long bolt to hold them while I welded them in. I planned on using an Allen key fastener, with the slim round head, for the tires sake

Uhm, if you are seeing rust in your rear wheel wells, then the problem is larger than you think. That rubber coat in the wheel well gets perforated by stones and it rusts underneath the coating, often times leaving the coating as a good disguise of missing metal. Mine took 2 patches per rear...

I can't remember who I picked this up from, but you can space the throttle bracket/pedal off the firewall to get it to the elevation of the brake pedal. I using a 1JZ w/usdm mk4 turbo throttle cable, I used 4 1/4" thick 1" round cabinet spacers, for +1/2"

Full interior on the supra? You took something like a 800lb penalty. Also, does that "silvia" have pop up head lights?

^the factory service manual will have a page of chassis measurements, that will allow you to verify if your chassis is straight. A skilled auto-body worker will be able to tell if a car has been on a rack. There will always be tell tale signs, of repairs. I can't blame you for wanted to start...

I thought it had something to do with the original paint colour?

It depends if your located near an international port. There are pockets of high saturation of engine importers around, being near toronto allowed me the choice of 5-6 different importers.

Straight basic; 1/2 cut JZA70 - $2800 Clutch - $500 Driveshaft - $500 Rad+fans - $500 Fluids hoses seals etc - $500 Fuel pump - $100-$400 So yeah, it'd be easy to spend $5000 Without getting into changing mounts, bushings and all sorts of other stuffs that having the engine out makes real easy...

I went and bought a new "J-hook" and nut, and positive cover/insulator, The tray was drilled free of its spot welds and powder coated, installed by welding nuts where the spot weld holes were. Then plastic tray. I got out the ol double metric tape measure and sure enough, that battery is...

Little stuff, like battery safety placard;

So I picked up some rims and battery tray/tie down from powder coating, and Uhm, is this not a Mk3 tie down, or is that battery just 20mm shorter? Time to cut up my spare...

Pretty sure if you remove the extra hook then yes, BTW, I think I am looking for a pair of targa door hooks. Have you tried car-part dot Com ? It's pretty handy for finding useful yards, I'd suggest metal if possible.

If you are more than say, 5'11" and/or 200lbs, then the car is too small.... From my memory

Not gonna run hvac?... It's really nice to defog the windshield in a jam... In my 240 I deleted a/c by gutting that section and sealing the extra holes... rainy track days were always my favorite

^did you measure width from were the tire sits on the inside of the lip, that is how they are typically measured, which always is 1/2"-1" smaller than total width...