What I would do if I was not running a heater core is to face the top heater hose towards the driver side, use that 90 degree brass fitting in my earlier post and cut to fit a long 90 degree rubber hose ( like this one...
I wish you would have caught me earlier as I just copyrighted it right after that post ;) . I need to get all these pictures I have of my build in a build thread but I just have to find the right picture hosting service that is forum friendly.
The driver side is the heater core return side...
Out of the 10 years of owning a Supra, one of the two times it left me stranded was when the heater valve broke. That brittle plastic blew that whole upper heater hose section off in 2010. I been lucky on a used heater valve since then but this year for my build I bought a brass 3/4" 90 degree...
Just to give you a estimate, I parted out 2 turbo Supras (in 07 and this year) and each was about 4k in sold parts. Once they were parted out I gave the rolling shells with titles away for free (wanted to avoid the junkyard and rather see them in hands of another Supra owner who could use them)...
Is it just separating the black part from the insulation underneath? If so some spray adhesive works great around the edges to keep it together. Water is the true enemy for that piece.
I would use these pictures from this auction if they help:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/89-92-Toyota-Supra-7MGTE-Turbo-Throttle-Body-Assembly-TPS-Sensor-OEM/122501971221?fits=Model%3ASupra&hash=item1c85afbd15:g:dYwAAOSw~FJZHPKM&vxp=mtr
AutoZone has a fuel pressure tester in their "loan a tool" program. I had to use it before on a old Chrysler and it came with a lot of fittings for different vehicles.
http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/fuel-pump-diagnostic-kit/oem-fuel-pump-diagnostic-kit/913437_0_0
Yes that will cause a problem and the engine light might not come on right away. On my Supra lately I been messing with the ECU Masters standalone and going back and forth to the OEM ECU as well. What I notice when I do this is once I plug back in the OEM ECU back in it needs to relearn and it...
Lol, nice catch. Gotta wonder how and when that ended up there. Have you done your other window switch also? It runs on the same circuit and once I got the chard contacts looking like new again, I was amazed how fast the windows worked again with both switches cleaned and greased.
When my AFM got destroyed along time ago (Because I used crc mass air flow sensor cleaner when it first came out and it had no warnings on the label like it does now "not to use in Toyota Supra Turbo") it would not go past 3k rpms. Usually also when the ISCV goes bad it will make the Supra idle...
No problem. I been checking myself here and I can't find anything either. I only am seeing those thread in adapters but they look too small like this one...
Glad to hear you got a set. I am most happy to help others with what ever information I know or can share just as others did the same for me 10 years ago. This site has been a goldmine of information and not just for Supras but a lot applies to most vehicles in general and I feel I learned soo...
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