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Yep, that's a vacuum pump. How else are you going to keep vacuum to the cruise control actuator when the vacuum system comes under boost while driving? (Like going up a hill).

There's a few people on here that are running a JZ CC because of it's small size. I also hear that some of our North American models of Lexus' use the same CC. Here's a pic for reference.

The black plug looks like the plug that hooks up to the HAC sensor. (Mounts by the glove box hinge). The bigger white plug looks like the plug that hooks up to your dash harness, and I have no idea what the smaller white plug is for.

Not always. You can have codes without the CEL coming on. If you do change out the screws with bolts, just remember that they only get tightened to 22 INCH pounds. NOT foot pounds. If you over tighten them, it'll cause a leak; or worse, you could snap the tabs off the head where the bolts...

The main thing that leaks that can cause oil in the plug galley, are the valve cover gaskets. Another gasket to look at, is the "galley cover"; as the 4 plugs also seal up oil passages in the head and can also leak. It may not be unrelated. If you have oil in the plug galley, then it could...

It IS a bad idea! Everything that's there, is there for a reason.

I'm VERY interested in seeing how this works for you.

I seen it was looping the second time through, and waited till it started the third time and thought: "It doesn't end?!?!?!"

Why do you think they call it WORKING on your car? :biglaugh:

^^^ You don't need a code reader to check for transmission codes. A paper clip, or piece of wire will be fine. The flashing O/D light is an indication that you have transmission codes present. To check transmission codes, follow the steps outlined in the TSRM...

^^^ Thanks! :thumbup: I had no idea.

^^^ Wow, I did not know that. What's the ECU use the oil pressure reading for?

There's an adapter on Prosport's website that you'll need to buy if you want to use their sending unit in the stock location. The adapter costs about $10.

Only the intake cam is different. The exhaust cams are the same. If you wanted to get better breathing for your NA-T, all you'd hve to do is get a turbo intake cam.

It's not. It's only popular amongst those who don't know any better. It gives you more torque on the low end, but falls flat on it's face somewhere above 5,000 RPM. (Not very ideal for a turbo application). All it does is shift your power band to the left.

I'm not sure if you've seen this yet, but there's a guy who's putting a 1GZ-FE in a MKII. He got his engine from Yahoo Japan auctions. I also love this pic. A 1UZ sitting next to a 1GZ. It's actually not that much bigger than the 1UZ, for having 4 extra cylinders.

Looks like they failed miserably!

As I stated earlier in this thread, most companies don't care (or charge extra) if you swapped in a turbo motor. I don't see why anyone would want to take any risks by trying to hide an engine swap from their insurance company (concealment), and hope they don't find out and void your policy...

Look under the intake manifold, and you'll see the port it hooks up to. It's the port (in the pic) that has nothing going to it on the 25706 pipe.

First things first, check your codes. As mentioned above, we have three coils on a waste spark system; so the misfire on 2, 4, and 6 can't be a problem with the coil packs. The only thing that ties those cylinders together are the injectors. Our batch fire system fires injectors 1/3/5 and...