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+1..looks awesome, but would have definitely removed the fenders too..you went so far, and removing the fenders is barely any extra work at that point. but i'm sure the end result will be great!!

1jz ftw. .

that's just a junction block, not the ecu. once you get the dash out and see how it was put in, it is easy to take out another time. when putting back in, you need to be careful of the pointy tabs on the dash, closest to the windshield, that line up with holes in the frame of the car. if...

I'm having the same problem, tried the epoxy, but still run into it either when the engine is very hot, or very cold...in between it is fine. the cracks on mine aren't even that bad...I think I priced them from Champion Toyota at like $75/piece for the coils. I need to invest.

I am pretty sure I killed the converter over the past two years. I am going to be replacing it in a few days, with an oil change and new plugs. I had the stock computer when I passed last time, and then installed the mine's and sold the stock ecu, so I can't put it back in to see if that...

I always have a problem getting all of the air out of the cooling system on my car after having to pull the radiator or changing the coolant. I just bought this to try and solve my issue, a spill-free funnel kit to burp the system:

the cat is a high-flow and is 2 years old, could it have gone bad already? would the engine be running any boost while the car is on the machine? seems like it wouldn't, unless there was that much resistance from the rollers. E85 seems like a pretty involved option, not sure that would...

two years ago, my 1JZ passed Virginia emissions just fine. now, it failed HC's, CO% and NO at both test speeds. no codes stored in the ecu. stock engine with intake, 3" exhaust and MINE's ECU. one symptom is that it is slow to start (cranks 3-4 times to start), unless the engine is cold...

thanks for the input. I am not set on the FAL's, they just seem to be popular...but I have heard about the fuse holder issues. I am looking into the Adrenaline Motorsports version, has anyone had good results so far with these?

yes that is helpful, thank you. Are there any that allow you to control one at a time, or is that a custom install? I am pretty low-knowledge on the subject so any help would be great...a write-up would be perfect!

I have a 1JZ with mk3 radiator and a single e-fan, and want to put in a dual 12" flex-a-lite's. Any suggestions as to which model, and where to buy? Are the 210-220 series common? Has anyone ever done a write-up on wiring/installation? Thanks

well Poodles, looks like you were right. I drove the car a decent distance, and now there is NO milk under the oil cap. complete false alarm, and now I feel like a dummy!!

but doesn't oil+water look different than oil+coolant? meaning, would you really still get milk under the oil cap?

can you elaborate a little bit?? I'm confused...:1zhelp:

even with the milky substance showing up under the oil cap? would this show up for any other reason than a BHG?

I am in somewhat BHG denial, but I have the milky substance on the oil cap, and was wondering if this could be caused by anything else...is there any way that the turbo seals can mix coolant in the oil without showing serious signs of turbo failure?? Or are there any other ways to get the milky...

UPDATE: White targa car is now for sale: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95942 I need it sold ASAP so tell your friends!!

so the light stays on when you disconnect the check connector? (after turning the ignition on)? I have a spare ABS computer if you are interested...PM me if you want!

first I would see if there are any abs codes stored. does the "antilock" light come on? IIRC, to check for ABS codes, you just disconnect the small connector on the side of the abs module, turn the key like your checking normal codes, and count the blinks...let me see if I can find the real...

your telling me...shit happens tho i guess.