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I didn't want to say it yet because you will all flame me, but it's going to Maaco. They have a half price special for right now. I cut a deal with the guys there as long as I do all the body work and prep they are giving me their best paint for cheap !!! It is going to be a single stage acrylic...

ditto

A whole bunch of little dings down the sides for some reason, I don't know, that's how it came.

Don't worry, I'm not letting that guy do it. I can't afford having my car down for three months. I was originally going to do it myself but I decided that having someone else do it was going to be cheaper. I am doing all the prep work to save some $$$ though.

Does anyone know thre procedure for removing the headrest from our seats. My fronts have been redone in leather by the previous owner but for some reason he didn't do the headrests and they are kind of crappy looking and was thinking of having them redone to match.

One must sacrifice so that one may live !!!

A 1/8" rod would normally be set in the 90 Amp range for good penetration and flow. If the bead is spotty and hard to maintain, up your amps. Also make sure the metal you are welding is clean (no rust) and your rods are fresh. The flux coating will absorb moisture over time and render them...

Somebody has a death wish !!!

:runaway:

Yup, sanding sucks ass. I originally just wanted to take off just the peeling clearcoat on the hood and roof but things just kept getting further and further, then the small dings and the dent in the ass end and walla....I ended up sanding the entire car.

Yah, once it's painted, the only thing left on my list of things to do is figure out how to tune the MAFT-Pro so I can drive it:biglaugh:

I am leaning towards the 202 since I am doing it single stage. I decided on that due to the cost and the fear factor. Clear coat gets too messed up too fast and is too hard to maintain, not that black cars aren't tough enough already to keep clean. But we'll see. I have two days to make my decision.

Since last December, I've been working on two cars and the last few months I've dedicated most of my time to this one. My 90 (originally N/A) Turbo. The interior, stereo and of course the engine were first priorities. Now for the body. I've been driving it around for a couple of months looking...

Certainly not WOT, maybe mid range. I never got past around 4000 rpms due to the fluctuation of my AFR's and I didn't want to do any engine damage.

Hello, Doc....anybody??? Any other ideas on my settings that would give the above results? Thanks pimp for your thoughts but any idea what I do about it?

High tolerance = loose valves = ticking Low tolerance = tight valves = possibly lower compression (in extreme cases)

Forgot to mention. I have a ton of shims if you need some, just tell me the size and I'll send them to you.

Exactly, and the loose one cause the "valve bounce" which results in a ticking noise.

The clicking you hear by the ECU is the starter relay. The two yellowish/white plugs I believe are for the transmission. Either for an automatic (solenoids), backup switch and/or the speed sensor.

Maybe he's talking about the power steering "idle up" tube.