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I'm interested, just got a new one from the dealer when mine flew apart while hot rodding but I wouldn't mind getting a better one.

I looked at the schematic and yes they are gounded, inside the ECU after going through a diode and then the signal dissapears. If you grounded them before the ECU then its two less inputs, the nuetral for auto (for manual its a switch made when depressing the clutch pedal, and the starter (STA)...

If an oil port is blocked then even though you could have good pressure something could be oil starved. When slick 50 came out I bought some and put it in my 72 280SE 4.5 mercedes hoping to bring a high mileage motor a little more power while all it did was plug up my overhead cam oilers and...

I don't have the number but its from around a late 90's early 2000 camry. I got the plug from a junkyard. You can get one from Napa probably with a plug and just splice it in. Ive got one wire going to ground and the other from a 30 amp relay to energize when the temp gets around 210 with the AC...

I went with a small pusher fan on the condenser.

You will need the old 7M shroud too and it won't work well enough with the 2J blades due to clearance issues. I lost a fan, shroud and radiator when the 2,J blade hit the shroud and disintegrated. You also can toss the little ac fans cause of the ic pipe.

I read on another board that the speed sensor wire affects the auto ECU's if cut.

yes, speed cut for me was at 120 mph. You can get the greddy speed cut and piggyback it up to the speed wire or cut the speed wire and have a check engine light when you get up to like 60 65 mph. Ive heard of some people cutting the speed sensor wire and toggling on or off with a switch...

There is a tool here that would make the job easier. Http://toyotool.com I bought a used set of twins from Jose at kaizen and sent them to gpop shop to upgrade to steel wheels, I believe they show the kit online. Its a good thing I swapped them cause the rear one had half the blades broken.

You going to do the work yourself? Pulling the cams and shims and using compressed air to hold the valves in place while changing the seals?

My 1988 bmw 750il has an inline electric pump to assist the main water pump when running the heater system. Its about the same size as a fuel pump but has a heater size hose output. Wouldn't be enough to run the system but might give it a nice boost at low rpm. I sure could have used something...

I agree, but normally the blower will work on high if its bad.

The plug is in the main harness as it comes up from behing the left valve cover. You can see where mine inserts into the harness.

Yes you need the map sensor or the car won't start, it will crank but won't start. Get that and try it before you start reading wires. Did you find the plug for it? Make sure the plugs are on the crank and cam position sensors.

On the 7MGE and 7MGTE it uses an air flow meter, and 1J uses map sensor which is the manifold pressure instead of an airflow meter. it is connected to the intake manifold by a hose and the wires are close to the brake master cylinder on LHD cars. You can see the diagram here...

Is your map sensor plugged in? if you have a meter read out the TPS and Map sensor circuit and check for shorts or opens. They are interconnected.

Just tried another ECU and it didn't start so the aristos 440s are out the window, Also tried installing a smaller intercooler and the welded anchor nuts dont line up with the "universal" bracket so I tried using a rat tail file to lengthen the slots but after 20 minutes of trying to file...

Its a toyota temp switch, two wires and ground is external, not a one wire switch using case ground.

Check the fuel pump relay on the right fender. I had some aftermarket hood struts that would come off as I lowered the hood and it would extend into the relay and damaged the wires.

Make sure you get the high temp rated caps for the ecu, its listed on the cap itself.