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The heater would have been on the opposite side on the 1J harness but it isn't there, Im just running a straight vacuum hose so its allways on till the weather warms up. The hoses were not kinked so I have a nice chrome ornament in my trunk.

Hi, first off I disconnected my heater valve after the metal pipe broke and plugged the water hoses about a year ago. I just went on vacation to the USA and got one in Phoenix at one of the yards there and put it on this morning and I seem to have misplaced the connector for it so my question is...

this link tells you how to wire it in, bounce what you did to it. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?133623-Wiring-the-1UZ-FE-into-a-Pre-89-Supra

The throttle body is mechanical and only moves from the throttle cable. Vacuum leaks can cause high idle but not that much.

If you mix driveshaft parts from different shafts the whole thing will have to be balanced as a unit from a driveline shop. That could get costly.

I'd say GE ecu. The flying lead has a small hump in the case which yours doesn't have. It will not work.

It might be a 1jz-ge ecu, where did you get it?

Heater valve on the fire wall? Sometimes the vacuum hose comes off.

I had the same problem with the " Plug and Play" 440's. They didn't work so I put the stockers back in and it fired right up. I now have a resistor pack with 550's but havn't put them in yet. I never figured out why the 440's didn't work, the impedence was only 3 ohms less. Drop the stock...

You can check the weep hole on the front neck of the waterpump for starters. You can also get a small hand mirror to look at the underside of the turbos to see if its the water pipes for them.

Mines ECU's are only made for bone stock engines. I sent them an inquiry before and told them my mods such as upgraded twins with steel wheels and their reply was: Thanks for the inquiry. Unfortunately we do not have data to be able to map your ecu with the specified modifications.We only can...

do you have any of the optional harnesses connected for the emanage?

If you look at the link I gave you , in it is the wiring diagram and it shows the green and white wires going to the emanage as the map sensor wires. If it was done with any forethought, the two wires will have opposite connections so you can just disconnect and connect original back, then re...

I don't know anything about the emanage but it should store the tune but Im not sure. You will have to hook back up the map sensor wire to fully remove the emanage and try just the mines ecu, everything else should just be a pickoff from the harness.

Any codes? You can pull your ecu cover and check for leaking caps which is usually the culprit for fuel flooding issues. It happened to me days after my swap so I had a local shop change them out. Also try without the e-manage and see if that does the trick. There is also an LED you can check...

Better to go with a complete R154 driveshaft as the whole thing has a factory balance. If you put the front half from another shaft you will have to get the complete shaft rebalanced from a driveline shop.

My experience with the stock pea shooters is they put out with stock ecu and no mbc around 8 to 10 psi after my swap and fixing my crushed 1JZ intercooler (crushed on pallet on its voyage to Kuwait from L.A.) with a stock 7M I had. I was thrilled after having boost but of course wanted more so...

When I did my swap I tried a 7MGTE tach in my NA cluster and it didn't work. I ended up installing a turbo cluster and then it did. You should be able to get a whole cluster from a self service wrecking yard for under 40 bucks.

timing could be off too, what codes can you pull from the check engine light?

no its not normal. My 1JZ ran like that on the way home after my swap cause the intercooler was not holding boost and I didnt have a boost guage. The 1J intercooler got semi crushed on the pallet when I shipped from LA to Kuwait. I put the 7M intercooler and jury rigged some piping together...