For the $40.00 a set of bearings cost put them in and have fun.
Yes you can rotate the mains around the crank but it isn't easy and in your case not worth it. Keep in mind that a rod knock does have adverse effects on the rod journal, often elongating them so that they aren't round any more.
In an earlier post I mentioned that I had pulled the engine and trans as a unit. I was suprised at how many people responded who just pull the engine. I have always pulled the engine and trans together wether an A/T or manual. I found that removing the 8 or so additional bolts and speedo cable...
While removing the engine from an NA that I was working on, as I had done many times before, I hooked / looped the chain over the lifting hooks of the engine. Everything was going just fine until the engine/trans was over the radiator suport. At which point the chain "rolled" off of the back...
Is it speed related or drivetrain related? I have had a couple of different brands of cars (Subaru, Suzuki, Mitsubishi) come into the shop complaining of a vibration and the fault was an incorrectly tightened crank pulley that had started to come loose. Just one more thing to check....
re-tightening the valve cover bolts is part of my lof routine, I even went so far as to drill a small hole in the coil cover so that I could reach the VC screw beneath it without having to remove the cover. Now if I could just fix the PS leak....
So how did they open the door, over ride the security system, start the engine and get past the steering lock mechanism? Im not trying to give thieves insight but to protect my own investment.
Fouled plugs usually indicate a rich mixture. Back firing and flames from the tail pipe are also indicative of an incorrect fuel ratio.
I would suggest starting with those items that affect fuel mixture. Verify that the ECU is recieving the correct information that it needs i.e. temp sensors...
I matched them up last night only to find they are 2" longer than the stock struts.
Iwill post pics of them tonight in case anyone thinks they can make them work
Necessity, who is the mother of invention.
Plato
For all of you Utah Supra owners, NPS (1700 South and Empire Ave in SLC)
Has 3 boxes full of hood and hatch struts for $1.99 each. The boxes are located on the bottom shelf directly accross from the tires. As you go in the store turn right and go all the way back to the auto section.
FYI...
Of course there was the time when after an engine rebuild someone poured a quart of oil on the floor under the car to make it look like the engine was leaking. At the time it wasn't funny but looking back it always brings a chuckle...
Not my mistake, but worth noting
I bought an NA with a "blown" head gasket that the guy had just recently replaced but still spewed oil and water. When I pulled the head I found he had put the gasket on BACKWARDS!
I have read in a few different postings that people are adding an extra quart of oil when doing an oil change. What is the purpose of the extra oil, is there an oil starvation problem when cornering or braking? Under acceleration logic would suggest that the oil would be forced rearward to the...
With the Cressida requiring a forward sump pan and the Supra block having a rearward positioned dipstick tube, what is the easy way to remedy this? I would rather not drill out the blank boss for a new tube because the engine is almost completely assembled when I realized the problem.
Is there oil/water froth on the bottom side of the oil fill cap? If so, check the weather forcast for the next warm weekend or just park it until spring.
I HATE doing headgaskets when my fingers are numb from being cold.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.