Search results

Find someone with an ionizer that you can borrow

Wasn't the rear view mirror line a direct take off from canonball?

That is what is happening to mine, it hangs up right at the point of disengagement. I usually pop the pedal back up with my foot after which it will work normally for a time

My Subaru Legacy is up around 280,000 with no problems mechanical or otherwise and I have never been stuck in the snow

When shifting brisquely during enthusiastic acceleration, the clutch pedal will sometimes hange up midway through its travel. I have replaced both the slave and master cylinders, the clutch is a Spec clutch. It feels similar to a failing slave or master cylinder. I don't see any leaks around...

I picked up a Mac 1/2 drive torque wrench for $30.00 at the local pawn shop. A good torque wrench is critical when tightening things like bearing caps, head bolts, front crank pulleys and lug nuts. Spend the money and do it right the first time. As an aside note, verify the valve...

Did you paint the doors in two stages i.e. paint the jambs then paint the outside? Thanks for the pics

For those of you that have painted your cars, what did you do when it came to the doors and jambs? Did you take the doors off? Tape off the wire harness and door check? Or just leave as is? How did you clean/prep the hinge area to get good paint adhesion? My car had a cheapie 1 day paint...

I just finished adjusting the valves and through the process accumulated about 60 shims (thank you Pic-A-Part). If anyone in the Provo/Salt Lake area need any, let me know I would be happy to share.

Never heard of a 5 angle, you should ask for some clairification on that one. Make sure to check valve clearance before you install the engine.

Just curious, what does the "A" signify?

If it were me, I would verify that the clutch PP was fully engaged by making sure the clutch fork had no tension on it. If no tension then the PP would be suspect in my mind. Possible oil contamination of the pucks. I don't think it is physically possible to put the disc in backwards because...

Because I am old enough to know better but young enough to do it again and again and again

Toyota has a "special tool" that holds the crank both for loosening and tightening. My son made one for me out of scrap laying around the shop. It took him all of an hour to weld up and I have since used it many many times. I have found that the paint on the damper will bond the crank...

Maybe I should have them powder coated instead. Shiney sounds like it is labor intensive

I just finished polishing the valve covers and they look great! How do I keep them looking shiney? Should I apply a clear coat? I know I have read about this before but I can't find anything via search.

Another vote for Dr Jones

Screw driver and magnete worked great for me too. Go to your local Pick a Part and find all of the old twin cam Corrollas. I picked up about 50 shims for $5.00!

Yesterday I went to the local Pick n Pull now there are a lot of old Corollas with no shims! I was able to find several that will work. 48 shims for $5.00, not too bad for an hours work!

My machining cost a little over $200.00 but they ground the tip of each valve stem and didn't reset valve clearance. I found this out after the fact when starting the engine for the first time last week. I measured the clearances and they were all about .010 over tolerance.