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Yep Iv seen it all, 4 years with FedEx, and we are usually a little nicer than "UPS I broke your shit"

:word8kn: Fragile' isnt that french for please kick the shit outta me??? lol If your not comfortable dropping the package from waist or shoulder height onto concrete, its not packed well enough.

Might as well buy a new head from Toyota for what that would cost.

You dont want to touch the head, if anything you can polish the inside of the exhaust ports but dont remove any material. IMO its not really worth it because after the first start up they will be covered in carbon anyway. As for the manifold. you can smooth out the excess material where the...

Ya thats pretty normal, if you would have shimmed the second relief valve you would have 20+ at idle. As for the fuel cut, check all connections and if you cant find it make a plug with a hook up for a compressor and pressurize the system and listen for leaks. Its possible your system is just...

did you only shim the pump or did you do the relief valve in the 90 off the block as well?

The supra one they make isnt a log manifold, he was refering to the E36 model, and they dont flow well at all. Shaeff, Ill have to pm you about turboing your E36 I have another buddy who is considering it himself, without buying a whole kit.

Thats a little on the low side, but then again the stock gauge isnt exactly a precision instrument. How many washers did you shim the pump with?

Whats your oil pressure at?

Iv seen it before looks like a exact copy of the hks cast manifold. I installed one on a budies Bimmer, quality looked really good and no problems after 10K

I havent used them but I have allways heard they are actually better than RCs, PTEs ect. I would get them cleaned and flowed before using them if you pick up a used set. Denso makes really high quality injectors.

Oh Oh can I pull it, please please^ I didnt want to tell you what to do as I know everyone else will, but you might as well check your clearances and at least order bearings accordingly, not much money in that at all

I guess Ill be the first to say it... Good Luck! I dont know about now measuring anything but when I get around to building an autocross car Ill probably do this with the motor in it. See what it will handle with out blowing up while building a "real motor" for it

16 is great for me, I don't see any reason to change the location either, saves a lot of hassle as most people who show up have been out in the past and know where it is

Not looking good, those pits look pretty deep as well. You could take a look at your other crank, have you ever had water in your oil?

I would think that first hard 90 would impose as much of a restriction as the extra 1 & 1/2 feet of piping with a few more but milder bends. The second bend that drops down to the IC looks sharp as well, and I can imagine the sweep to the IC inlet is also a pretty tight radius. I know one hard...

You want to choose the thickness that gives you the optimum quench area and compression ratio. You should shoot for a quench area around .8-1 mil and you'll have to calculate your compression ratio. what pistons are you using?

I think duane is usually the one who make the post. Im crossing my fingers its later than last year, WSU finals are the 4th to the 8th this year.

Here you go Software and latest update the quick start for version 4.8 is on there too, just follow that to start and adjust your main scale to compensate for your larger injectors

The ladies like to be drilled.......milled....not so much lol