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IDL is the switch connection inside the TPS, that tells the ECU the throttle is fully closed (idle). Easiest way to check this is to short the T1-E1 connector (as when doing timing) and look at the check engine light. If it gives no codes, all is good. If it gives you code 51, the TPS needs to...

Yes, with the T1-E1 bridged it will hold the timing steady regardless of coolant temperature or even RPM (as long as the IDL in the TPS is closed). With a non-functional IDL, it will not hold the timing at all, even with T1-E1 bridged.

10 mm Allen (hex) socket: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/head_retorque.html

It is a crankcase breather. It allows the oil to drain back easier, during operation. Do not remove it.

I have a bit over 310K miles on my car (500 000km+). 260 000 miles of which I put on myself, in the last 11+ years. Is the car reliable? Compared to what? Something like a 300zx twin turbo? Yes. Dodge Stealth? Yes. Mitsubishi Eclipse/Talon? Yes. A 1998 Civic? HELL NO. These are bloody...

Check your engine codes. My crystal ball sees the code 12 in your future. But it's a cheap crystal ball, so don't quote me on that.

I don't know if buying an oil pump off ebay would really give one a piece of mind. New parts can also be defective, as no manufacturing process is perfect, not even Toyota. Why not just check the condition of the current pump, so you know if it's good or not. It's not rocket science, just two...

You are correct in your assumption, that if you go into the RPM mode, everything needs to be reset to zero. Even if you just flip it to the RPM mode, and then back to the regular mode, it will apply the settings and screw everything up. I'm sure lots of people get caught this way.

I don't really know since I only played with the GTE, but I would think so. The Zt-2 has an analog wideband output from what I see. Is that temperature compensated signal, or just the raw data? I can't find much info on it. If it's already compensated (processed) than you can build your...

Your exhaust pressure is almost always higher than the boost pressure, so it wouldn't vent. Without that check valve you mentioned, it would be the worlds biggest EGR valve. :)

Why not check it to the TSRM specs? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/lu/LU_10.html

The ECU will not automatically go into open loop (pig rich condition) when the TPS exceeds a certain value. I found this out by wiring a spare TPS so I could actuate it by hand from within the vehicle, to whatever value I wanted while driving. It must look for some load (airflow/rpm) value...

http://camel.apeserver.com/SupraBible.zip

MP = Multi Purpose. Just use any grease you have around, or even just motor oil will work. You will not be able to press the seal in with your hand. You need to find something that will fit around the perimeter, like a large socket, piece of pipe or whatever and hammer it in, so it doesn't go...

The stock thermostat stays closed until 190F. It doesn't fully open until 212F. Just pointing out that the thermo-switch does not engage at 160F, like some think it does.

Brake rotors will reach about 1000 F in "normal operation", and way over that if you're punishing them. That rust proofing will create a nice fire, if you choose to go with it.

The A/C fan switch turns on at 212 F and off at 203 F. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ac/AC_33.html

Fan flow is usually rated with zero restriction on the fan (0"H20). Comparing any specs from aftermarket companies without seeing the flow charts where it shows the fan actually doing any work (restriction against flow curves) is next to meaningless, so don't get hung up on the flow values. It's...

What makes you believe it's fried?

A 10 second voltage drop test will save you 3 hours of labor, and 30 bucks on "special" wires. You guys always troubleshoot without testing first, or what? Do you dive into a pool without seeing how deep it is first?