That will work for finding leaks after the throttle body on the intake manifold side, but unfortunately almost always leaks occur on the other side, between the turbo-intercooler-TB. For that, this won't work.
I find if I monitor the AFM output, I can usually tell if there is a leak because...
I'm a mechanical designer for a machine shop. I mainly design sawmill and mining equipment and other big-ass machinery. I also program the CNC machine, make laser and flame burn patterns and run their office computer network. I also run the shop floor when the foreman goes on holidays, which is...
Edelbrock RPM series mufflers are one of the better flowing units out there, judging from flow testing. Unless you want the fart can sound, that should work good, and it even comes in SS for a reasonable price.
What car/engine do you have by the way? On a N/a I wouldn't bother with an intake...
I've had great success with a replacement unit from "performance radiator". Most any auto part store chains probably carry it, for a very reasonable price. It will work million times better than a crusty 15+ year old unit. :)
The forums and MKIII's are a "hobby". Once it stops being enjoyable to post here, it's time to leave.
When the smart people leave, it's for the next generation of enthusiasts to take up the slack, not spend their time bitching about it.
When everything is handed to you on a silver...
Lol, you design a "simple" gear and clutch system that works at 120+ thousand RPM, and doesn't add much weight to the original turbines, and the world will beat a path to your door.
Just use a 25 hp shot of nitrous guys. You will not outsmart engineers who have been working on this problem...
You use a modified serial cable connected to the MAFT with a few wires, and follow some simple instructions to load in the new file. But I'm sure FTS will ship you a new chip if you send them your old one (the chips aren't cheap).
Pressure differential. The turbocharger manufacturers are banking on you having more air pressure in the exhaust, than oil pressure in the turbocharger. Since the turbo is really "oil drip lubricated" due to the restrictor in the oil inlet and gravity fed outfeed, this is a reasonable expectation.
Looks good Sathu.
Curious though, did you block off the gap under the radiator somehow? That cross beam is a lot higher than your sheetmetal, and leaving it open would defeat any improvements with the undercover.
Air is like water, if it can leak out of somewhere, it will. You have to...
Try the CPS "wiggle the wires by the green connector" trick. Sounds like what happened to me. It has a hard time starting when it's not quite right, since the signal gets weaker the lower the RPM.
Best would be to crank it, and have a friend mess around with it. Once it starts it will be...
In a closed system, you really cannot move the coolant "too fast". In one way system like an intercooler, sure, you need time for the heat transfer, but this totally doesn't apply to a cooling system. The higher the temperature differential between the two mediums (water/air) the faster the heat...
If you slow down the coolant going through the radiator, what happens to the coolant in the engine?
Think about it. And yes it is an urban legend, and totally incorrect.
There is a rubber 90 degree hose on the back of the head, above the exhaust manifold, right against the firewall. Tell your mechanic to replace it. It's a real bitch though.
Find a quiet area (at night is good) in an industrial area with lots of square flat buildings. Open your windows and while going about 40mph shut off the engine and coast in neutral (don't lock the steering wheel obviously, and you'll loose power assist). You should be able to determine from...
There is a "FP" (fuel pump) terminal in your diagnostic box by the battery under the hood. Stick the red voltmeter lead into it, and ground the black lead of the voltmeter to something (the battery ground is right there).
But by the time the power gets all the way back to the fuel pump, you...
It's a shielded wire. Same as your cable TV wire, or RCA stereo wires. The signal line is on the inside of the ground wire, which surrounds it to suppress electrical noise interference.
You're missing the chrome "cover" pieces. You can even see the mounting brackets where they used to attach to, in your pic.
chris89, you can see what the stock one looks like in some of these pics (click for big-ass resolution):
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/gallery.html
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.