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Say what?

Your English is pretty good Mon-sewer. Better than many here. As for EGR resolving his problems it won't in the direct sense. Just that I won't help him unless he puts it back...

Put the EGR back on...

Sure, although it's life will be shortened. More importantly you'll need to connect its emulated NB output to the ECU, something I don't recommend due to the inherent accuracy of a NB over a WB.

^ This. And in the interest of accuracy the typical automotive thermostat is not bimetallic but wax pellet.

Crack me up. Car broke but codes apparently unimportant. And it's not possible to set initial timing with a TPS related 51.

Crack me up. Because a leak in the lower manifold is different than a leak caused by the booster line being off...

It won't. That was my point. On L Type EFI systems pirate air will not increase idle speed. The only things that will are bypass air (air around the throttle plate), timing, or fuel. Assuming the last two are good it has to be the first. That means the ISC, throttle plate, or PCV systems. If...

For those of you that have properly running engines try this: pull the brake booster hose off. Let us know if the idle increases. If you think the resulting stumble is because the leak is too big try modulating it with your finger. Again, observe what the idle does...

^ Doing that when armed will trigger it. As for the guy who wired a push button, congrats...you're SM's Bubba Of The Week.

So you're blaming the car? Just wanna make sure...

Yes

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=014 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FA&P=29 Functions (inputs) are anti-dive (brake signal), anti-squat (TPS), anti-roll (steering shaft encoder) and high speed firm (speed sensor). It's all...

Now that's entertainment...

Ah, ATI. Thought you were stock. Never mind...

Crank pulley?

You misunderstood. Unlocking (it's actually unlatching) is imho superior. Anyway, the stock system isn't difficult to repair (it also has immobilizing but better to inhibit the fuel pump rather than the starter, an easy mod) assuming the box is OK. All one needs to do is check each input and go...

The stock sender and gage operate using a principle not found on most vehicles. Therefore most replacement senders will not only not work but will burn out the gage, as will grounding the wire more than a minute or two...which is why the TSRM specifies limiting current with a lamp during testing.

^ That. Also, was the sender you put in the right one? And get rid of the Haynes and search the TSRM further. All the info you seek is in there...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=8404&P=1 Click on the number...