Again, secondary voltage will rise (within design limits) to whatever it takes to ionize the gap. For properly gaped plug with the proper mixture (mixture is important) that will rarely be above 20kv. Once the gap is ionized and current begins to flow voltage falls quite significantly for the...
I hear ya and agree. That said this may turn out to be a good thing. Once it's litigated the ATF must convince a judge that shouldering the brace constitutes "redesign". If that ridiculous argument fails (and several legal experts think there's a good chance it will) the days of SBR rules as we...
^ Yep: http://tinyurl.com/pon5aql
"The pistol stabilizing brace was neither “designed” nor approved to be used as a shoulder stock, and therefore use as a shoulder stock constitutes a “redesign” of the device because a possessor has changed the very function of the item...
Not supposed to but you can. I've done so on a few occasions when having a CPS chucked in my lathe for testing. Really ought not to be a need though. Low output is more likely to be a result of coil damage.
http://tinyurl.com/pvsktyw
Yeah, do that. Best to unplug the fuel pump relay when doing it though.
I owned the car 25 years. I'm not just pulling stuff I post outta my butt.
And even if the CPS had to be spun harder to up signal amplitude what's wrong with using something like a drill motor? Rocket science this...
^ This. Not only is it common sense from a technical standpoint but I can't remember how many times I've done it myself. Also mentioned it many times in the past here. Why would I do that if it doesn't work?
Sigh. You try to help and what do ya get....
Well, which is it? If you have spark it'll fire given a shot of ether unless the timing is off.
Edit: Remember, if for sure you have no spark/injection and are unable to trace the problem properly you can always unplug the fuel pump relay then take out the CPS and spin it by hand while...
You can and people do but without going into detail solder isn't as "good" as a properly done crimped connection in multiple ways. A lot of study has been done about this in the aerospace industry. It's why all the wiring in aircraft is crimped. It's also why the car's harness comes crimped from...
First check cranking voltage. Must remain above 10. Then completely bypass each side of the ECU power circuit. That way you'll know on which side the problem lies and if the engine will start with the code resolved or if you have additional issues.
Thanks for the update. Fwiw a healthy battery will not sag below 10 vdc under cranking, about the same voltage it should never be discharged below to avoid impacting its service life.
Use the book Luke. Unlike the heater core the "cooling unit" can be pulled without removing the dash:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&P=33
Course, you'll have to put the box back in, sans evaporator...
If you've tossed the lines and don't plan on AC again why not just remove the evaporator and use body plugs as suggested? They'll be easier to find, way cheaper, and what's left will much be cleaner looking. And the dash doesn't need to come out in order to do that.
I see. You're aware in a typical ignition system (including the stock one) voltage will rise to whatever is required to ionize the gap and once ionization occurs will fall significantly and remain there for the duration of the burn time?
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