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If you don't understand why all three come on you aren't reading the EWD correctly. That said the Toyota Charging Systems training manual goes into detail how the monolithic IC regulator operates and the three conditions which trigger the L terminal. I've posted them before and would again...

Lots of ways to test them, from a DMM on up. You can even test both at once by using one to excite the other. I've done it. Requires some gear though. And yes, several parameters must be met before 52 is set.

While I don't doubt for a moment replacement of your alternator resolved the problem much of the rest is nonsense.

It's a pie eating contest where first prize is more pie.

Congrats, another successful hack...

It's called back-probing and yes, that's what you do. I was thinking more at the sensor though since the voltage supplied by the ECU can be used to verify the wiring is good. Understand about the face. I once smiled and mine was sore for a week...

Next time measure voltage. That way you can check the wiring integrity without removing the ECU. Use of ohms/continuity should, in most cases, be left as a secondary check.

Crack me up...

The EFI sensor is the one upstream (engine side) of the thermostat. The 2-wire one (EFI sensors are almost always 2-wire). The code is set when the input (THW) is open or short circuited: more than 4.8 vdc or less than 100 mv.

They do?

Since both systems use ported vacuum, yes.

^ No, he's not...

30 amp fuse and a file on the "contacts"...

Suction screen...

Nothing came up? Seriously?

Unfortunately that comment along with others reveal a distinct lack of electrical knowledge that will likely prevent you from resolving this problem yourself. Seek qualified assistance...

I miss that stuff. Back in the day bought it in 5 gallon pails. Had a stash but didn't keep the lid tight enough ;)

Your ECU needs to remember things. Things it learns (idle, spark, and fuel control) and things that happen (faults and codes). This data will be lost when the ignition switch is turned off unless the box is kept continually supplied with 12 volts. Such connections are generically known as Keep...

Understood you the first time but appears the reverse isn't true. And no, unless your coils are leaking they're unlikely to be the culprit.

Interesting. So it ran fine before all this while a tooth off? Or did it magically skip the tooth when you had the CPS out...which has nothing to do with the belt or how the CPS goes back in.