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Ok, you do know that the rubber on the stock pipes usually start to crack and create a boost leak. You can't tell unless it's under boost which is when the crack opens. The only codes that are related to fuel are 25 and 26. You would be getting a code 26 if an injector is staying open at...

Lol you're so angry. I can only hope to be that way some day. :biglaugh: Do you still have the stock intercooler pipes on the car?

code 34 is a boost leak. and it sounds like you have a boost leak. I had the same problem you did and it turned out to be a boost leak. my leak was at the coupler on the 3000 and TB.

I'd go see the movie but I'd rather wait a few weeks so I don't have to deal with the lines and loud kids during the movie.

I set the meter to 2 which is the lowest it'll go before getting into the k-ohms. So I'm guessing that I'll need a new coilpack? I also checked to see if the packs themselves were grounded and there were no readings. It is kind of old. It's my dads old one from the early 90s from when he worked...

I tested my ignitor and the voltage was fine, ~12-13 volts. So I moved on to check the ohms on the coilpack. The car was hot and the TSRM said the ohms should be ~.3-.5 ohms cold. It read .003-.008 on all of the coils with a solid ground. Is this normal to be this low because the car was hot or...

JDM engines, no matter where they come from, will have the same problems as they do here. You don't know how they've been driven, how they've been taken care of, etc... A rebuild is 100% better than just buying a JDM engine. You know the history and you are positive that it will be good and...

Hey a somewhat local. Lol. Lookin good so far.

Car is officially on the road now. It has a couple of vacuum leaks and it's throwing a code 14. So i need to fix that. It idles a little rough but thats ok it stays running. I've driven a little over 200 miles now on the new engine. I've loved every minute of it. The first day I drove it, I...

I did a diagnostic and I pulled up a few codes. 14 and 52. I'm not too worried about the code 52 as it's a knock sensor. Code 14 is the ignition signal. Ignition and ignition coil circuit Ignitor and ignition coil ECU That would explain why it sputters and backfires sometimes...

That is honestly the most useless thing i have ever seen/heard. You cant even hear the rest of the music. Furthermore, it sounds like my ass after I eat Taco Bell.

I just shoved my boost gauge in there temporarily.

I guess I'll do a write-up tomorrow with pics since my temp gauge light stopped working for some reason so I have to take it out. The LEDs are here.... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=9053046.28322&next=50 About a quarter of the way...

Dammit, there goes a good set of 89+ tails! That was a terrible color anyway.

Sorry, I forgot to include that lol. It's gloss black and it's about $5 per can.

Thanks all for the help, but I'm an idiot. I fixed both problems today. I put a new alternator in which solved the "BRAKE" and battery lights and upon closer inspection of the WHOLE engine, I found I did have a boost leak. The coupler on the 3000 pipe to the TB self destructed itself. That's...

You know you're old when you go into the bathroom and forget what you went in there for.

Ok, what are some things that can cause it to not boost past that?

Thanks all. It's Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric spray paint. It has since rubbed off in a few spots. Only because I had the door panels on top of each other and they were rubbing constantly. I'm sure if you put some kind of sealer on it, that wouldn't happen. It's not really all that glossy. It was...

Would the alternator make it not boost past 5 psi? It's exactly at 5 psi everytime. If I shift before it gets to 5, it doesnt stutter. I'm not sure of the diff, but I have an R154 now instead of the old W58.