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I posted that because I remember Randy telling people very specifically to never use one of his DDPs with anything other than a stock CT26 turbine housing. This was due to wastegate flapper interference with the internal divider in the DDP. = wastegate delete. I suppose it doesn't matter...

Do you have a stock turbo elbow laying around? Or anything besides the BIC DDP?

I don't know who said your car wasn't nice but, it wasn't me. It was obvious to me that you had put alot of time and effort into it. But, in order to get on the same DVD with some of the fastest street cars in the country, your car needs to perform like them! Not "good for a mk3" or "good...

The series is going to Englishtown this weekend, as long as it isn't rained out. So, AAP runs in a different class than Darin (8.70s with the 6speed) and those 8.50 Mustangs? Car looks like it is running real good. Good luck @ Etown if you head over there this weekend.

Having tuned just about everything out for the mk3, I must say the MAFTPRO is the most archane and tedious thing there is to tune.

A miss that is always there is very straightforward to track down. If the shop doing your install/tune can't do that, bring it somewhere that can.

If there were any mk3s doing anything worthy of being filmed, they would have filmed it. There is no hate for mk3s from the JPJ crew or anyone at the TX meet. Just no fast or powerful mk3s showed up. No slow ones even did anything crazy for the cameras to take notice.

Hence why your dad will not let you drive the car by yourself! You don't have a drivers license yet but want to do a burnout as your first official act behind the wheel. That is not a good idea. You should become a more experienced driver first so that you do not endanger yourself and others...

LOL, Duane, I know it is hard to keep track of Victor's broken transmissions but, there were two on plain street tires and two on drag radials if I remember correctly.

Quit bragging about it and start rebuilding that pile of broken transmissions! :p And for the love of God, burn those drag radials so they can never go on the car again.

An HKS DLi would be a really good idea. You can probably max out the stock turbos without it but, you will have to run a rediculously low plug gap and driveability will suffer.

I'd say skip the EMS boost control unless you can't fit tires that hook under your car and have to use VSS based boost. As for the driveability tuning, just take it one step at a time. If it revs clean sitting still, it shouldn't take too much work to make it driveable. Automapping can be more...

You can have as many tunes as you want with most standalones. I have hundreds of them. Good luck passing emissions...

I think you have a boost leak :p

I normally pull ~4% fuel out when I put a street tuned car on a dynojet (just to make numbers as there is no other reason to really be on a dynojet). A Mustang dyno opened locally recently that has a fully enclosed, climate controlled dyno room, full instrumentation, excellent airflow and...

As I said, your wastegate spring isn't strong enough to make boost on a dynojet. .9 bar is only going to get you 1.8 bar max and less on a dynojet. I have a 35R 7M in my shop right now with a .9 bar spring in the wastegate. It is the biggest thing holding the car back from making more power...

His wastegate spring probably isn't strong enough. quake- What turbo is this on?

Either that or I/C fender pipe rubbed thru the B+ cables that run thru there.

RPM accounts for velocity in the speed density equation. Pressure is just pressure.

You are using a 7M CPS? AEM is really bitchy about getting a good signal from them (most CPSs are junk by now). AEM also doesn't care for cranking voltage below ~11ish and will refuse to synch if it goes low.