You've stumbled on what I believe to be the root cause of this problem. It isn't limited to the mk3 platform (Nissan KA and SR do it the worst). It has to do with the ignition synch teeth. Best fix I've found is to experiment with the CPS and synch setting until the issue is gone. The last few...
Greg,
Sorry for the delay. I don't get over here as much as I used to.
I haven't used an 1130 to run a 2JZ but, I think your biggest issue would be the ignitor. The 2JZ ignitor uses an awkward 2.5 volt signal that the 1130 box isn't going to output without some modification. If you are...
Manny, sorry I took so long to get in here and have another look, been really hectic lately. That is a good one! Something must be loose or broken for it to change on its own like that. I'd suspect a camber/toe adjustment bolt, a hub bearing, the subframe or finally a worn toe link (all in that...
Hey Manny, that does look like what happens when the trailing arms bend. It may be time for some upgraded arms after we take a look and make sure that is what it is.
Haven't seen any of the AEM cars I've tuned jumping the ignition timing around randomly. It will cut off spark intermittently if it loses signal from a poorly preforming CPS. It logs timing errors when it does. Looks like you may have a decent poor mans pickup there though...
Thanks for the tips. Did the first part before turning the key on Mannys car. The dwell and main spark advance are usually where it is at to "fine tune" the stumble all the way out, once the CPS is where the AEM likes it...
Bring it over if you ever get one back together Howard! :sarcasm: :biglaugh:
Seriously, you know I am just a phone call or a short drive/ferry ride away.
Glad to take care of it for you Manny. Can't wait until we get a chance to make some power!
Glad you made it home safe in the rain Manny.
logan- It does the "3k stumble" very slightly if you sweep thru at just the right acceleration rate. I have some ideas on how to eliminate it completely when me and Manny have a chance to spend some time street tuning the driveability. But, the one...
You can't go by PC comms to see if the EMS is actually online or off. A good clue is the check engine light. The startup calibration for the AEM has it set to be on with the key on and engine off. If the light is off with the key on (and the settings haven't been fiddled) the EMS is likely...
One 15 amp circuit is really marginal to run all of the EFI crap and a fuel pump. Add in ~20 years of corrosion and decay and it really goes down the tubes. I usually run a seperate circuit from B+ to a relay triggered by the stock FP wiring on mk3s. It alleviates alot of quirky issues.
I'd be checking the MAP sensor wiring and CPS wiring. Wiggle all of the connections with the engine idling. If that checks out, give the EMS box the old "tap test". You need to see if it logs a synch or timing error when it does that "boost cut" (after you check the boost cut setting), then go...
Put it up close to the back of the turbo (same distance as the stock O2) if you want to run leaded gas and not kill the sensor every single time. It is too cool farther back and the lead coats the sensor in about 1/2 an hour of run time.
Nice work again X-man. Why did you decide to stop there?
Regarding the 1000cc injectors, they work fine in batch mode. It doesn't exactly idle like a Lexus but, most of us have scrapped the idle quality already with cams / solid mounts /whatever in the search for more powah...
"Extracting power without extracting the rods from the block"
Not sure what your interest is from that. Other than nitrous, bigger turbos, more boost and more octane with all of the supporting (strength, fuel, i/c and control) mods, there aren't any cost effective ways to make significantly...
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