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I'm a firm believer in the metod of driving the car easy on first startup until the motor oil is warmed up to operating temps, then do a WOT pull in 4th (away from any busy roads, of course) racing the motor up to about 5500 RPM, then letting off and having the gears drag the car back down...

You just realized that? lol

The limitations of a fuel injector are power and flow, not boost.

There's some type of computer for the auto that you have to bypass in order to keep it from kicking down on you when you punch in the throttle in 3rd gear. I don't have an auto, but I've seen auto supra's dyno before and they had to do something like that to keep them from kicking down a gear or...

I got a funny picture in my head when I first read it :biglaugh:

Think of it as prepping for a full rebuild ;).

Depends on what you plan on doing with the car. DD? But want a good look set of tires with a fat one on the back? Get something with a treadwear of 350-450 (probably won't find many with a better rating than that in something higher than a 275...

I've got 3" turbo back, no DDP, 2.5" hardpipes and a bigger FMIC and I hit 10 psi all day long holding to redline, no boost controller of any type on the car. It's not hard at all once you start modding the car.

That will do it right there...

No you don't, but it's highly recommended that you get one to keep the cylinders from being washed down. Try setting the FP around 30-33psi with the vacuum port attached first off. It's going to be hard to tell how well it's running as far as being rich or lean goes without the use of a Wideband...

Got a question for you: Do you have your valve covers ports or the port going to your throttle body from the valve covers capped off?

The car will run, it just won't rev high (only about 1500 RPM) and you'll only be able to creep into a mechanics lot, or your home ;).

That's not going to happen. A MBC can only RAISE boost, not lower it. You'd have to get a little more complicated than a MBC if you wanted to lower the boost, such as having a tank of compessed air in the car with a regulator set at what psi you are shooting for, along with a a way to regulate...

Does the fuel pressure fluctuate? Are you unplugging or powering down the S-AFC?

Remember, make sure you torque the ARPs per the instructions for either Moly specs only, or motor oil specs (I suggest Moly as it comes with the ARPs and provides a more accurate torque rating).

Check the hose on the back of the head, it's a 90 degree black rubber hose, if it didn't burst, then you better go ahead and replace it now, along with the fitting it's connected too if it's erroded (most likely). That one is bad about going out if it's the original one. You will overheat very...

No it's not, cam saddles ;).

Also, don't pull a number out of the air like 90 ft/lbs and decide that sounds good to torque them to. Torque them properly or don't do it at all. This may sound harsh, but you'd thank me later for that bit of advice ;)

6.7 psi max. Stay away from Fuel Cut Defencers until you understand the full ramifications of what they are and what they are capable of doing to your motor if you put one on your car unprepared.

That guy's a damn idiot then, there are no cams bearings in this head. You need a new machinist man. :nono: