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The hicup is fuel cut, your pulling to much boost to quickly the ECU is seeing airflow numbers it doesn't like at lower rpms. I would think your having boost spikes due to the boost controller not being set up correctly. Code 14 means the ECU isn't getting the IGF signal from the ignitor that...

Dynojet numbers are closer to crank numbers than they are wheel. Also he has 550's and a lex afm but no tuning device I would say he is still deep in the 10's AFR wise.

Ok I'll bite [/IMG]

Warning danger to manifold AAAAAAAAAhhhh shit now you will have to replace those piston rings you just fried:sarcasm:

:x:

Are ebay turbo's as bad as they are made out to be?? Seems hit or miss from the posts I have read but then again this could be down to people not doing things properly and not the turbo's fault.

Bigger injectors

No EGR here but I run MAFT pro, I have mine tuned so as soon as I start making boost my AFR drops to 13:1

Blue smoke on start up usually indicates valve stem seals are past there prime.

Effet (I think thats his screen name) has made a twin turbo 7M take a look in his build thread. Like IJ said its a waste of your time and money, GT3540R + E85 + 24psi = 500+rwhp of goodness Twin turbo 7M

Thats in the reigon of 200mph :squirt-mo

Yep as stated by previous posters tune is king, you can melt any engine even the godly 2J with a bad tune.

The truth is no one actually knows when the CT26 becomes in efficent as there is no compressor map for it. The best guess compairing turbos of a similer size is between 13 - 15psi about the limit.

You may have a faulty resistor pack, try unplugging the resistor and jumping it with a bit of wire.

Now that will bring a tear to your eyes:gaybar:

Yep, the stock exhaust is a tad restrictive. I had a non genuin stock exhaust when I got the car and it necked into 1.75" OD on the s bend just infront of the rear box. Put my full 3" home made pipe on and gained 3 psi without any other mod, back pressure FTMFL

Under boost your fuel pressure should be base (37psig in your case) + what ever boost your running (10psi in your case) so your fuel pressure at full boost should be 47psig.

If its all FALLACY why do the Japanese spec ECU's have a different fuel and timing curve? Please educate me if I'm wrong

I think these are numbers at the crank not the wheels? Something doesn't look quite right with that graph 356lbs/ft at 2200rpm you swapped in a diesel lump?

I didn't know engine internals were rated in boost. With a bad tune and no knowledge I would say about 1psi