Search results

How long does it take to undo 14 studs?

That limo needs to be drifted lol

What do you mean by "blew the airflow meter"? I'm confused.

Sometimes when a filling station gets really low on gas and you fill your car up it will suck all the sediment from the bottom of the tank. I know quite a few people who had to have their tanks flushed and filters replaced after the fuel blockades in 2000.

Have you had the check engine light come on at all? First thing you need to do is pull the fault codes (if there are any) from the ECU.

A CT26 should be fully lit by 3000rpm as peak torque arrives at 3200rpm. When it spools is fairly gear dependant I can build boost below 2000rpm in 4th and 5th gears.

Just a quick question, on the dyno graph with the GT30 producing 363hp was that wheel hp or crank hp? Also was that on the engine with the 1.2mm or 3.0mm head gasket? Cheers

^^^^^^Indian rope trick.

2JZ GE running on 7M electronics so the redline we were talking about is the one hard coded into the 7M ECU. Or at least thats what I was talking about I can't speak for anyone else.

I believe its to do with if the car was fitted with a 6M or 7M crank.

Put some deep dish split rims that will fill the arches then it will look alot better. Not my cup of tea though.

Stock CT26 has a 46mm inducer so if yours is bigger than that its been upgraded.

Yes you can power it up with just two wires the two pins you need are 10 (ground) and 5 (12v) both are on the far end of the 10 pin connector. 10 (ground) is on the top row and 5 (12v) is on the bottom row.

AFR can be displayed on the hand held unit, not sure if you need the gauge or not.

Just curious about what you do with the low redline of 6500rpm on the stock 7M ecu? Or do you just live with the lower redline?

I would not drive a car with a blown turbo, yes it will still drive and be able to achive 80mph.

If I have been informed correctly the N/A inlet cam has 10* more duration than the turbo inlet cam (210* v 200*)

For all those who worry about backing the screw out I had mine backed all the way out (about 1 turn in) and my a/f's were still very safe at around 11 - 11.4:1 at full boost and I was able to run upto 14psi before the ECU said no more fun. Looking through the AFM I would say its only about 7-10%...

Yet again more proof that the 7M isn't the boat anchor lots of people claim it to be. Just goes to show that if you bolt it together properly and tune it right it will perform and last.

I think your confusing the fact you can use the 7M GTE electronics on a 2JZ GE with the misconception that a 2JZ head will mate to a 7M block.