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Guys, just quit talkin' shit.... sometimes you have to decide on all the things you have to do, all at one time. So, if U have an opinion about why I did not send $3K on wheels, I don't wanna hear it. Do better than I did, and if not, ki$$ my @$$. If U did better (all at one time), then...

I have the Sportmax 502s in silver. That lip is just a thin metal cover for dressing (and is not replaceable, I asked)... mine are scratched and small dents here and there. But this is just the cosmetic design of this particular wheel/model... Nothing "really" tells me that this wheel will...

I know, right!? I tried to find some unbiased, 3rd party comparisons (maybe even from the government, DOT), but as luck has it, I could only find manufacturer claims/info from their sites (and other's "opinions"). My interweb search skillz may be failing/weakening. Does anyone have a link...

^meh. We usually pay around $600 for a set of wheels for our sups. Allows us to replace every few years to keep up with trends/likes, or after enuff curb rash, without alot of heartache/expense. Currently have 2 sets of the 18" Sportmax 502 and another set of 19" ADR Battle EXE. Have not had...

I used the VVTi ECU, and stock everything else on the motor. I did have my CEL on, but had a couple of broken VSVs. It could've also been because the drive-by-wire components weren't being used. I did not have it going long enough to figure it all out. However, from a pure swap perspective...

Pretty much the same as any other 2J swap. Mine came from a JDM '99 Supra. I used the MKIV throttle cable and the ECU controls the VVTi features/parameters. It does look pretty in the MKIII and I hope to maybe try it again sometime. My swap was shortlived... water mixed w/oil (maybe BHG)...

The low button/setting is likely because of the blower resistor dealio which is held on mby 1 screw, below the blower motor. You have to look up the firewall from the passenger "foot" area and see a small connector (4-wires, I think). It has 3 little curly wires in it which control the...

The pre-89s seem to be more prone to cracking (at least in the turbo models). If you are going to use an earlier one, search for where they commonly crack and maybe have it welded/reinforced prior to installing. Other than that, they are interchangeable (AFAIK).

There's usually a paper gasket between the master cyl and booster, but it's not a "leak preventor." If fluid/air is leaking, it's likely things getting past the piston/seals in the master.

The booster will need to replaced with a used/rebuilt, if it is leaking. No rebuild kit with that diaphram that I know of. Master rebuild kit was about $12 (had to order & wait 1 day). Simple enough to rebuild and the TRSM covers it too. You still need the factory recommended grease (look...

Good stuff... I was able to gleem some 86.5 wiring knowledge from your info and can now move along with one of my projects. THANKS!

I'm getting this same error... Maybe just post the thread number(s) and we can search under our own profiles/login...?

Okay, so there is no B2 connector on this engine harnesss and many of the M1/B1 connector wires do not match up to what's been published for the pre-89s. I've worked out many of them and am tracing to confirm, but has anyone already got a wire mapping for a swap into an 86.5 N/A with no TEMS...

Sux dude. I hate it when someone else Fs up my stuff... I'll look in my old stack to see what I have as far a a pre-89 passenger mirror housing, but am almost sure I do not have silver.

I'm assuming it's a pre-89 subframe... My 87T had a similar issue. I had it welded, but it was never the same. The 89+ subframes seem to hold up much better and I believe they were reinforced a bit. You should easily be able to find one for about $150 (from what I remember a few years back)...

Loose & flattening vacuum lines were the cause, when I was chasing similar symptoms/issues. Good luck!

Sorry... missed the "Period-Correct" meaning. Car term I just hadn't heard that way, I guess. Got it, THX!

I think there will be a widely-varied response of "ultimate," since everyone's tastes, goals, budgets... well, you know. Here's mine. Always been a fan of the split 5-spoke type wheels.

Been awhile since I've looked at a 1J harness, but think that the crank angle sensor connector is in that area and maybe the progressive power steering connector (right hand drive)... You'd probably need to check the Soarer wiring diagram, or trace/tone them to the connections at the ECU/dash...

What engine/year is that, 7M? According to the pre-89 N/A engine harness spread out on my table, looks like they go to the AFM/MAF connector.