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90 degree coolant hose at the back of the engine?

Wiring is probably the first thing you'll want to fix. You can have the harness repaired and tested for around $400. Check with Dr. Tweak in the vendor's section.

You may also want to check fuel pressure to make sure that the motor is getting enough fuel. The lines may be clogged. Have you change the fuel filter?

need lex afm. will run very rich... prolly not at all. without the lex afm you will increase fuel by ~25% and will run very rich without the additional airflow provided by the lex.

easy way to see if injectors are leaking is to jump the fuel pump using check connector and see if they leak. other than that is sounds like your timing is off....

Open downpipe will melt the under coating on the car pretty fast. Sounds like a ponential fire hazard....

yes, there are many options, but the most popular is maft pro. http://www.maftpro.com/tproinfo.shtml

find one with continuity beep. it makes it really easy.

did you even read the tsrm? what are you talking about seeing light through the throttle vavle? you don't mess with that stop screw. you adjust the tps by loosening the 2 screws on it and moving it until you get idl continuity with the throttle closed and no continuity when the throttle is opened.

we've already told you exactly what to do, code 51 means your tps is out of adjustment. Check here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101

code 51 means tps is out of adjustment and adjusting the bump stop is not how one adjusts it.

Check this out. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ab_auto_body_work/article/0,2021,DIY_13675_2276674,00.html Normally when sanding paint, I would use about a 200 grit before I primered. Then wet sand the primer with 400 grit until the orange peel is gone. Block sand any spots with bondo.

It's not compatible if the plugs are yellow. This is for 87-mid89 ecu. Grey is for newer years.

Don't pull the EFI fuse. It will clear the codes.

Check your codes for sure: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx As far as the MAP ECU, it will not be reset by pulling the efi fuse or loosing power. Here is some info on the map ecu for you: http://www.mapecu.co.nz/map1.html. Also, there is a good thread on here...

Is the car throwing any codes at all?

Buy an aeromotive. Go to driftmotion.com and check them out. I don't understand how your car can even run with out a FPR?

Boost leak won't cause you any problems if you have a MAP ECU. This is only relevant to cars with AFMs. Sounds like you have a serious electrical issue though. Have you verified that the fuel pump gets ~12V while driving? Bad wiring can cause problems with the fuel pump cutting out.

I tested the AFM. I've also tried another one just to be sure. TPS voltage reads pretty steady and it's fairly new also. What kind of scope would I need? Just for clarification, the car is not throwing any codes.

My 87 Supra has a hesitation problem between 2500 and 3000 rpm. It goes lean on the wideband (16-18 AFR's) and hesitates/bogs until about 3000 where all is normal again and AFR returns to around 11-10.5 under boost. -AFM is good -injectors have nice rhythmic clicking, verified by touching...