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Get a multimeter with a continuity beep. This will tell you when the IDL contact is closed.

verify the ecu has voltage. it's ig/sw and e1 on the 7M. i dunno if it's the same for a 1JZ but that's where i would start.

sorry to hear about your car man. my celica gt-s was stolen from right in front of my apartment in march. now i'm using the supra as a daily driver. i just take the maft-pro unit out of the car overnight. i'd like to see them start it without out it :P

they go bad from moisture, dust and other crap. i'm not trying to say everyone of them goes bad, but i know i've had two bad ones. i bought one from a member off ebay guaranteed working and it didn't read within spec and the one that came with my jdm engine didn't work either. edit...

have you checked all your afm's using the tsrm? sometimes if they sit around they go bad. i had 2 of them bad in a row before i bought the maft pro.

http://www.suprasport.nl/Supra_MK_III/Electronics/Toyota_AFM_electronics.html

that's why i haven't done it yet....

don't have a wideband as of yet, so i'll just have to monitor vf for now :P that's next on the list of purchases.

It's reading around 0.00 volts usually. When letting off the throttle it will read about 2.00v or so. I know I could benefit from leaning it out a bit. Is the best way to do that through the low, mid, and high tune pages?

I got it fixed. I flashed it to 4.60 and reset all the settings and went back through and programmed it. Now it runs smoothly. No more hesitation when pressing the gas! It seems like it has to relearn some of the values though. After programming it it was idling funny, I let it idle for about...

Ok, I updated my 1987 Supra Turbo to 4.80 from 4.40. I updated all of the settings per the quick setup guide, I really haven't changed any other variable yet. Now the cars idle jumps up and down between about 650 and 900 or so. Also, when I try and let out the clutch it wants to die unless I...

you can check to see if the ecu is getting power with the key on by checking ig/sw and e1 with a voltmeter. it should be ~12V

I put my cometic in with arp head studs and just had the head machined. It cost me $50 for that. I cost me around $300 to do the whole job. Car runs strong at 12psi. No problems at all with the head gasket....

First check your codes, then check for boost leaks. If that all checks out, then check your fuel pressure and make sure it's getting enough fuel.

yeah, it sure was. i'm glad i got the car running strong. now on to the body work :)

fyi... the problem was a clogged fuel line.

maybe you should check for a clogged injector then...

check and see if there is power at ig/sw and e1 check this out here for more help: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=122

ecu controlled

i see your from cincinnati, take your head to bischoff engine services (812) 637-5933 in harrison. they'll rebuild your head for a reasonable price.