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Iirc, the inlet and outlet on the cat is right around 3". You might find the OBX to be a better header as well. Either way, there are some modifications that have to be made to them.

Check exhaust for broken or missing hangers, or if its been bottomed out. Could be touching the rear subframe. Also check all your bushings(control arms, subframe, etc.) Check for loose or missing bolts and shields as well.

Felpro gaskets work fine for me? They like to stretch if you aren't careful, or maybe you got 2jz by mistake(auto parts counter people like to hear 87 and type 97). Change the stock screws to bolts(you can order the 2jz v.c. bolts), and use a drop of loctite on each one. Mine have been on...

A/C probably wouldn't work; not cold enough, and there's not enough coils. Take a close look at the evaporator core in an a/c system. They're pretty thick, with a lot of coils(looks like a really fat radiator) that the incoming air actually blows across. It also builds up alot of...

Put your stock intake in for inspection... Missed where that one needed to be cut. Looks like the filter is on the wrong end. The vac. nipple is on the other end.

What brand plug wires are you using? The cheaper wires will have issues connecting to plugs and the cap good. Use Delco(not sure if they make wires for the Supra) or NGK at a minimum. How long has it been since you've changed the fuel filter? Is your air filter clean? Edit: Have you tested...

Try local parts stores. You want a chrome one, not a black one. You could use a 3/8 drive with an adapter, too. Make sure the adapter is impact(black) grade.

Looks right to me, even includes the vac. line for the power steering idle up. You could use any filter with a 3" opening to fit on the afm adapter. Apexi makes a good one. The stock air box is a cold air intake. Your best bet would be to replace the rubber accordian hoses between the afm...

ALL heads are torqued from the middle out. You must have misread the Haynes manual.

Codes? How did you determine what wires went where on the body harness splice you mentioned?

Might check your cps connection and harness for brittle or frayed wiring, or bad connections. Seems fairly common for an intermittent start issue on the GTE. Might post up your voltage readings for the tps, to, just to be sure.

All Data won't show a difference between U.S. and Japanese.

Make the contacts on the coil side of the wire fit better. I had to spread them open a bit to get a better fit on the cap for my n/a. I'm pretty sure I've seen other people here having a loose fit at the cap/coils with msd wires. Hope it helps.

No, the blend door(between the heater core and a/c evaporator) controls that. Its how you can control the temp. of the air from the vents, as long as its all working correctly.

Does look a little like the powerstroke turbo. Mounting tab looks right, iirc. Think you'd need an adapter to make the exhaust flange fit, and probably a wastegate. The powerstrokes don't have wastegates or b.o.v.'s, so you'd have to go aftermarket. No clue if it would work well on a Supra...

Good advice. Your local parts store might have one, to. Water pump is in that general area as well.

How does it drive? Does it break up during acceleration(like getting on an entrance ramp), or is it only at an idle that you notice the miss?

I used misc. 3" intercooler tubing, and had them ceramic coated. Need to drill one hole for the power steering idle up vacuum line, and install a fitting, but it's pretty easy. You can get silicone couplers, and the reducer, from pretty much anywhere.

The original shifter on mine was used with worn bushings for so long it actually deformed that ball. When I got in there and installed all new parts, the cup seemed to fit good, but would come off when shifting. It would catch in there as well, and make it hard to shift. I used the shifter...

Is the little white(?) cup still on the ball on the end of the shifter?