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Read this for n/a cams on a turbo. There are quite a few threads here on this topic, if you search for it a bit.

Really does sound like a trans pump whining, but hard to tell on a vid. What does the trans fluid look and smell like?

What year? I found a tech. serv. bulletin for cold hard start/driveability on 89 and 90 models. If the complaint was both cold start and driveability, tech was instructed to install an updated ecu. Have to have the 22 deg. Celsius c.s.i ti.me switch, as the improved cold start injector logic...

When you installed new ujoints, you made sure that they move freely? If they're tight, you'll get a vibration.

Very true about the temps here. Idling is just plain hard on a car. If the cooling system is working correctly, even in the summer here it takes around 15 min. between fan cycles. You really have to enjoy working on cars to do it for a living; not to say it doesn't suck at times... OP: I...

No, I work on everything, all year makes and models. Every OBDII(96 to 07) car I've tested under the conditions I stated( in park, idling, a/c off) works in the manner I've described. There are variances, but they all turn the fans on and off over the operating temp of the tstat. Years of...

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak.

compression test

Actually, I believe it's supposedly the other way around. Never have seen anything conclusive, although it has been covered many times.

Is everything else stock? Any exhaust or intake work? P&P the head? AFM, injectors, etc.? Just curious what kind of improvement you're getting over stock cams with similar upgrades. Works out to around 285 hp for your dyno.

It's really not that big of a deal to do what you want. I'd talk to the local racers at the drag strip or circle track, and see who they recommend.

The pic of the head looks like carbon buildup on the head surface from the chamber to the exhaust outside edge. Looks like its between 4, 5, and 6, and especially between 6 and the exhaust side of the head. It looks black and burnt, which would make me think it was leaking compression there...

Thanks Mark. I had talked to JE(finally), and they told me the same, -29.5 cc, which would work out to around 7.5:1 with stock head and block dimensions, and a stock head gasket?

Yeah, JJ turned me on to it. Another thing. Make sure you use a good, heavy wire running your fans. I'm using stock dual fans off a 98 v-6 Ford Contour with a built in low speed resistor. The stock Ford wiring to them is pretty heavy, around 10 gauge, if I'm not mistaken. Edit: Oh yeah...

Was it still running when you took it apart? Have the head vacuum tested at a good machine shop. From the pic of the head, it kinda looks like it had combustion escaping to the exhaust side from 5 and 6. From the pic of the pistons, it looks like 1, 2, and 3 were leaking(or at least weeping)...

See this coming??

Not really hard to do, depending on how bad your calipers are. I find that, more often than not, the main thing wrong with original calipers is the slider pins being locked up. Unless the boots for the pistons are torn, the caliper is probably in good shape. If the caliper is bad, or you just...

Have you checked for codes?

You might try something like this: Fan Controller They also have temp sensors. Might be possible to tap the stock sender for the gauge, but not sure.

Like previously stated(some things need to be beaten in), prep work makes the paint job. Also, you should use a flex agent on your bumpers. It'll keep the paint from cracking as easily.