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Note that we have a rather strange intercooler in that the inlet/outlet are on the same side. You can uprate it and use the type that have the inlet/outlet on opposite sides but you need to do some fancy pipework and it's much easier with a front-facing inlet manifold. Step 1 - Well, a crap...

Feedback from member When you separate the turbo from the elbow you then can remove the strut underneath the car with the 2 17" bolts. Once the rest of the exhaust has dropped to the floor or thereabouts you can actually undo the 2 12 ml nuts using an extension bar and a 3/8 drive ratchet...

Step 30 - You're done, remove it from the car. When moving the turbo around, don't carry it by any of the pipes-support it by the fat metal casing it has, here are some pics : Full turbo Exhaust (hot) side (The poppet valve on the left is the wastegate) Inlet (cold) side of the...

Step 25 - The bottom rad hose was in the way too so I decided to sacrifice some coolant (I'm pulling the engine out anyway) and undid the connection to the engine and re-routed it as shown in the second picture Step 26 - With that lot off you can see the awkward nuts finally as shown in...

Step 14 - Jack the car up (get it nice and high because you've got a bit of work to do from underneath) Step 15 - Locate the other end of the pipe you were detaching from the turbo and undo the 10mm jubilee clip (top arrow) then remove the pipe (second picture) by pulling it downwards...

Step 4 - Unplug the small hose under the accordion hose for the power steering Step 5 - Remove the clip at the other end of the accordion hose connecting it to the AFM (airflow meter) Step 6 - Disconnect the black box connector from the AFM Step 7 - Remove th AFM and inlet...

In case you don't know, the turbo consists of 4 connections 1. You have a feed of clean fresh air from the air filter that goes to the inlet side 2. There is an outlet to the intercooler which will send (compressed) air towards the engine 3. There is a feed from the exhaust manifold which...

Step 1 - 'Crack off' each wheel nut by a turn or so Step 2 - Jack the car up Step 3 - Remove the wheel and you'll be able to see the disc and caliper fully Step 4 - Undo the 13mm nut at the bottom of the caliper Step 5 - Retract the nut completely so the caliper is...

Comments from members perhaps you could advise a small amount of copper slip on the back of the pads where they contact the calliper, piston and where the pads clip onto the mounting bracket. I would recommend that when changing their pads people ALWAYS re-grease the big pins the...

Step 11 - Slide the caliper back onto the pin Step 12 - Now slide the pads in, they should clip into place quite solidly. Refit any shims you found in step 9 Step 13 - Ensure both pads are firmly against the disc so that the caliper will drop over them Step 14 - Attach the...

Step 1 - 'Crack off' the wheel nuts while the car's weight is on (don't remove them) Step 2 - Jack the car up Step 3 - Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Step 4 - Get yourself some new pads Step 5 - Undo the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the caliper Step 6 -...

Step 21 - Grab yourself a 4 pin relay which looks like this: Notice the circuit diagram on the top which is supposed to help you wire it! Basically you have a ground connection (one of the wires we just connected to the battery), a positive feed (the other battery connection), an output...

Step 5 - Insert the T piece into the hose you will run to the gauge Step 6 - You need to find a place to run this hose line into the car, the easiest route is through the large grommet shown here. This is found at the rear of the engine bay in line with where the glovebox sits inside the...

For the purpose of this guide I'm installing boost and voltage gauges. I will also be adding oil pressure + temperature, water temperature, EGT and possibly a wideband in the future so I had to do the groundwork to run all of these gauges. Here are the 5 gauges I have waiting to install...

Step 31 - Plug all the connectors back into the ECU Step 32 - Hook your battery up once again Step 33 - Put your ignition to the ON position - DO NOT START THE CAR! You need to set the SAFC up first Step 34 - Your SAFC should light up. If not, check all connections are OK...

Step 21 - The ground connection is an import one so I'll walk through this. There are two ground connections and their spacing is very important, you must have the brown wire at least 1cm closer to the ECU than the black wire. On the picture, my thumb shows where the brown wire will go and my...

Step 6 - Pass the SAFC through the double DIN slot in the surround Step 7 - Make any modifications needed to allow the SAFC wire to pass from behind the dash. Note I didn't have the stock Toyota blanking plastic (the blanking plate from mine is from the VW/Audi group, don't know which one...

Step 1 - Remove the surround for the stereo (See steps 14 through 21 in the turbo timer guide) Step 2 - Insert the long wiring loom through the DIN slot under the stereo so that it comes out in the passenger footwell Step 3 - Push the cable through until you just have the connector...

Step 122 - Fire it up and your car should hopefully idle. Mine stuttered and died the first time I tried then I left it for thirty seconds and tried again and it ran perfectly. I didn't drive anywhere, just idled, checked that a bit of throttle didn't kill it then turned it off. Step 123 -...

Step 106 - Right, onto the AFM side of things now. Remove the old clip from the accordion hose (You'll need a bigger jubilee clip to go round the Lexus AFM) Step 107 - Remove the 3 screws holding the electronics onto the old AFM Step 108 - Carefully remove the box by pulling it...