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Step 91 - Now the rail is back in place we can insert the next connection from the AFPR, this is the feed to the rear of the fuel rail (the one with the rubber and metal washer. For me this was a tight fit so I got the old pulsation damper and screwed the in to clean out the threads a little but...

Step 76 - Use a heatgun to apply hot air to the heatshrink. Don't just hold the gun on it, rotate it around the wire so it shrinks universally and forms a good seal. Step 77 - Your final connection should look like this Step 78 - Once all the wires are insulated and lined with heat...

Step 66 - Do the same for the injector clips Step 67 - Cut about 1" of heat shrink for each injector. Try and get adhesived lined heatshrink because it sticks to the wires better. Also, make sure you have the right size - too big and it won't seal, too small and you won't get it over the...

Step 51 - Check for your grommets that sit in the cylinder head. Notice that my 6th injector has one missing, that's because it is still in the head. Make sure every one is accounted for Step 52 - Carefully remove any grommets from the head that got left behind Step 53 - You should...

Step 36 - Back up top and remove the 14mm return line connection from the stock FPR Step 37 - Now you should be able to pull the whole fuel line out Step 38 - Remove the 17mm bolt for the cold start injector feed. Guess what, more fuel comes out! The second picture shows the banjo...

Step 21 - Undo the 12mm bolt holding the bracket for the EGR Step 22 - Remove these two vacuum lines and make sure you know which one goes on which side Step 23 - The final thing to remove is this braided line underneath, again just a spring clip and pull it off Step 24 -...

Step 11 - Disconnect the electrics from the black box of the AFM by pressing the tab in then pulling downwards. Step 12 - Remove the small vacuum hose (power steering idle up) from the underside of the AFM Step 13 - Remove the AFM, induction assemble and accordion hose in one go...

Step 1 - Pop the lid of the diagnostics box on the nearside wing and locate the terminals E1 and Vf1 Step 2 - Connect a voltmeter to the two terminals using the constant voltage range (V with the straight and dotted line) Step 3 - Monitor the values here to get an idea what your...

That's it really, you get big injectors for more fuel, add a fuel pump and pressure regulator to ensure the fuel supply is available, then add an AFM to fool the ECU into matching the injectors and use the SAFC to tune it all properly. Here's everything except the fuel pump: Figure 13 -...

SAFC ==== Once we've upgraded the fuel pump, afpr, injectors and AFM we have one last thing to tackle, air/fuel ratios. The ideal 'chemically correct' ratio of air to fuel that produces optimum power versus emissions + economy is 14.7:1, that is to say we want 14 parts of air to each 1 part...

Timing ====== Ignition timing is a very important topic, it is basically the point at which spark plugs should be fired in the combustion cycle. When performing the Lexus AFM and 550cc injector mod, we make no effort to control the timing (Stock is at 10 degrees before TDC-top dead centre)...

AFM === Simply dumping more fuel into the cylinders (don't forget the ECU won't know it is firing 550cc injectors) will make the car run rich. We also need to modify the amount of air that is allowed to enter the combustion chamber to create an effective burn. To match the fuel increase...

Fuel pump ========= The other important component to upgrade in fuel delivery is the pump itself. A walbro fuel pump is effective when performing the lexus/550 upgrade as this is able to increase flow over the stock unit. The pump itself sits in the fuel tank and can be a bit of a swine to...

AFPR ==== AFPR - An adjustable fuel pressure regulator allows us to vary the amount of fuel pressure in the fuel rail. With fuel injection, a fuel pump will move petrol from the fuel tank at the back of the car up into the engine bay. The fuel enters the fuel rail (essentially a tube of...

Injectors ========= You should consider a few properties when uprating your injectors, these include: Size - The amount of fuel they flow when the injector is fired, measured in cubic centilitres (cc) Duty cycle - This is the amount of time they are 'switched on' and is controlled by...

This document is compiled from my experience and a number of sites/forums/sources. Reg Riemer's SONIC document also helped and I hope he doesn't mind me stealing some info & putting them in my own words. Thanks to all those who have provided me with information, special thanks to John89t for the...

Step 3 - Locate the hose from the turbo to the wastegate actuator Step 4 - Use a monkey wrench to remove clips from both ends of the hose Step 5 - Pull the hose clear of the car Step 6 - You can now see the path we will be intercepting, from the turbo to the wastegate...

When it comes to boost controllers you have a wealth of options from the complex electronic variants (elctronic boost controllers - EBC) such as the Apexi AVC-R or the simpler Greddy Profec B Spec all the way down to manual boost controllers (MBC) and bleed valves. Bleed valves are frowned upon...

Step 6 - Slide the new gasket in Step 7 - Spray some carb cleaner on the rusty nuts (picture 1) and they should clean up a little (picture 2) Step 8 - Note that all nuts are the same except for the rear one that looks like this Step 9 - Fit your cleaned up nuts back in...

Step 1 - Follow the guide for removing the PCV system Step 2 - To remove the old cover (Number 3 cylinder head cover to Toyota) you will need a 14mm hex tool. One method is to get an old 14mm bolt and then stick a couple of nuts back to back as shown in the first picture. I had very little...