GUIDE : Changing your brake pads

[JSeaman]

Step 1 - 'Crack off' the wheel nuts while the car's weight is on (don't remove them)

Step 2 - Jack the car up

Step 3 - Undo the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

Step 4 - Get yourself some new pads

Step 5 - Undo the 14mm bolt at the bottom of the caliper

Step 6 - Remove the two 12mm bolts holding the brake hose clip on (note how the hose goes for refitting)

Step 7 - Pull the bottom of the caliper up (if stiff, use the back of a claw hammer to lever it)

Step 8 - Remove the top off the brake fluid reservoir and place a rag around it (or some kitchen towel) to catch fluid that spills over

Note : Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water and will proceed to do so from the surrounding air. You should only leave the fluid reservoir

open for a small length of time to reduce degradation of fluid. Also it's nasty stuff, if you get it on paint work wipe it off, same for clothes and your

skin

Step 9 - The caliper should now freely slide of the top pin (If it doesn't then you can lightly sand and grease it to free it up) and you'll be able to pull

the old pads out. Note the order of any shims (metal pieces between the caliper and pads) if you have any - I didn't

Step 10 - Put one of the old pads in the caliper and use a large g-clamp to wind it back in. There will be quite bit of resistance to this but you need to

do it until the piston is flush with the body of the caliper

The act of pushing the piston in will force brake fluid back up the system to the reservoir and this is the time it may overflow (depending on the amount of

fluid in there and amount of pad wear)

 

[JSeaman]

Step 11 - Slide the caliper back onto the pin

Step 12 - Now slide the pads in, they should clip into place quite solidly. Refit any shims you found in step 9

Step 13 - Ensure both pads are firmly against the disc so that the caliper will drop over them

Step 14 - Attach the brake line bracket using the two 12mm bolts - make sure the hose isn't squashed or twisted

Step 15 - Push the caliper down over the pads, you may need to 'persuade' it with a few taps from a hammer if it's really tight

Step 16 - Put your 14mm bolt in the bottom of the caliper (this is taken from inside the wheel arch looking towards the front of the car)

Step 17 - Pop the wheel on and tighten the bolts in place then drop the jack a bit letting the tyre rest on the floor to stop the wheel moving and tighten up

fully. Don't go mad, wheel nuts don't need to be done up as tight as you can, you'll just regret it next time you take your wheel off.

Step 18 - Start the car and pump the brake pedal a few times, this will force the piston out to take up any slack between the piston and pads. The fluid

level will drop again now.

Now you can top up the fluid reservoir if necessary and put the lid back on before taking them out for a test. No hard braking for a couple of hundred miles,

let them bed in nice and easy


Here's a picture of my very badly worn pads, yours shouldn't be this bad :

Hope that helps

 

[JSeaman]

Comments from members

perhaps you could advise a small amount of copper slip on the back of the pads where they contact the calliper, piston and where the pads clip onto the mounting bracket.


I would recommend that when changing their pads people ALWAYS re-grease the big pins the Calipers slide on . . . mine were fine the previous time I changed my pads . . but the last time TWO were rusted so solid NOTHING would shift them, so ended up having to replace the Calipers! (wish I'd realised before they are prone to this!)

Also well worth getting the Brake Shim plates if they're missing (readily available from Toyota - £14-38 for both front brakes) . . .

And I'd also recommend replacing the metal clip-on bits that the pads actually slide in and out on, as they're available cheaply from brake suppliers. (about £8)

Both the above will never need replacing again . . . and it's a small price to pay to ensure smooth braking and lack of squeals!