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yeah its a pretty rough part of town. i have a 10' tall chain link fence w/ razor wire looped on top. a full security system, 6 motion detectors w/ 1000w halogen lights and big dog. the weekends are the worst and there is this ex-con named vito that comes by to guard the place. it works out...

yeah def get the coolant issue sorted first. did you remove/drill out the J-tube on the fuel return? running the walbro pump and having the restriction it may cause exessive fuel pressure which would cause the super rich condition.

:rofl: :boobies: yes steve and i are working on a meeting place. most likely east side of louisville off of 64. from there, all riding out together on a fun run to the dyno. hang out, dyno, and a cook out.

wait, what are YOU doing surfin honda boards?

huge difference in power going from off the chart rich to 11.5. why are you running that rich? you have 2000cc injectors? :icon_razz

my dyno runs usually start at 3800 rpm. i have to do this because of my high stall converter. not sure about the boss, jt, etc. but the sp61 bolt on housing was a little smaller than my .63 a/r gn housing. if you arent fam w/ the gn housing it is bigger than a t3 but a tad smaller than a t4...

running 110 octane my car kept making power up to 12.2:1 after that it started to fall off. i just wanted to see what it was happy with and then put it back a little richer. i always tune for 11.5-11.8:1 my opinion is that is the best a/f for safety vs power. there is a huge difference in...

nope. side feed vs top feed.

a full standalone engine management system will. other than that, just the maftpro.

yes i agree. the only point to hide it is so you dont have a big goofy looking switch hanging out the back. but i would recommend getting a cut-off switch w/ a removable key. that way it is safer (noone could kill the alarm) and easier to mount behind the plate.

mmmm biscuits. oh yeah the adapter looks cool too. glad you guys got that worked out. now go get your car running already! ;)

sure will. hks recommends putting the afc before the vpc. however, i have found it to work better if you put it after the vpc.

yep that is normal. only way to change it is get the purple insert for it.

update?

yep exhaust will do it. but also above 4.5k the ecu just dumps fuel. the super rich a/f isnt the best for making power.

hey paul- glad you can make it!

do you have a good vac source on the fpr?

as of right now- 1. steve n 2. dbsupra 3. supraman502 4. jetfixr 5. fuzz420 6. supra7m 7. sturbo87 (trying to finish car) 8. louky 9. mdcmotorsports 10. jspec7m88 11. mkiisupraman18 12. rumptis (?) 13. 87candybluet 14. trydrew 15. suprahero 16. mkiii vixen 17. zurud...

it screws into the block where the stock sending unit was. from there you can screw in either your new sending unit for an elec gauge or a 1/8 npt male hose end for a mech gauge.

either way you decide, life will be much easier if you use this adapter it is a 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 BSPT male ATM-2269 is the autometer part number.