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sounds like you guys have it sorted.

sorry forgot this one. the shift points were done in the valve body, not the ecu.

the manual ecu and auto ecu are different. the ect ecu that actually controls the tranny is in the kick panel on the pass side near the floor. if you look at where the pass right foot would be there is a large piece of molded plastic there. when you remove that, you will see where the ect...

glad you can make it! im not sure i understand your problem. are you talking about the isolators on the rail? if so the oem are rubber, just over time they become rock hard. loose is normal to some extent. they should be able to rotate when installed but not move in and out.

dood. you dyno'd one time and on a mustang dyno which will always show lower numbers compared to dynojet. besides, your car is completely untuned. there is still a lot of power to be had with just tuning. all that money you are saving w/ dial up go buy an afc ;)

oh, jon @ mdc might have one in stock as well. i'll see if he does as another option.

i want to say its a 5/8". the shop i sell for prob has it in stock, i'll check for you. i believe they are around $15-20. if you are in a super big hurry i could have them drop ship it but it will prob cost as much as the spacer. but they are in northern indiana so youd get it quick.

it does have some adjustment to it, but mostly just rough adjustment. most run it w/ an afc. yes it will change the fco point. it depends on how you have it adjusted, which chip you are running, and if you have it in conjunction w/ an afc or not. it doesnt eliminate it like some people...

the ceramic bb do not have water lines. and really the only way to tell for sure that i know of is to take it apart. but then you have to get it rebalanced and all that jazz. usually if it is bb when you spin the comp wheel it will keep spinning for a few seconds. but that's not very...

the further it is out the higher the line pressure. i had thought maybe you didnt have yours adjusted out far enough, but doesnt sound like thats the case. it shouldnt cause an issue being a little higher, but you could back it down a bit and see if that helps anything.

i know you and jon are working out the adapter bit, but came across this today and thought you might be interested. its a 4 bolt t3 to 3" v-band adapter. wasnt sure if this is what you were going for or a completely diff approach. if you did decide to go the ext gate route this would make...

when you check the tranny level: drive it for about 15-20 min. then while it is still running take it out of park and shift to R. wait about 3 sec. shift to N. wait about 3 sec. shift to D, etc then put it back in park. then check the level. while you are checking it make sure it...

looks great man! that turbo makes mine look like a car horn from a honda.

white supras ftw! looks great, and white usually doesnt "shine" very well in pics. im sure in person its even better. also to note, it should stay looking good as well since white wasnt clear coated from the factory, atleast my 040 wasnt. it gets flat looking real quick along with...

see what you miss when you dont come to meets ;) nice avatar jeff :) and happy b'day steve!

at the time, yes. the terminals if you unbolted from the fender and stretched the hell out of them they would just barely reach w/ the battery sitting crooked. sure, i could have made new cables, but i didnt for 2 reasons. 1, why do that when i can get a different one that will sit right in...

i tried that battery, but the terminals wouldnt reach. so i went w/ the 34R and it fit perfect, plus it was a little more powerful.

it sure is! thanks. hookup is what takes the most time. if you want a single run it will be $35. he also mentioned we can take time between the dyno runs for cool down. oftentimes places will do 3 runs one right after the other. this will allow some time for some tweaks if you want to do it.

ok! he already called back and said we are good to go for the 23rd. he said we can def work out some good pricing, but it will depend on number of people going to dyno. also, the start time will depend on how many are going to dyno. if 5 or so, then 11a-12p will be best. if its 10-15 then...

i just spoke to the dyno guy. he said the 23rd should be fine and would be the best day to do it since he will be in bowling green after that for the next couple weekends. he is calling me back today with a 100% yes and will see what we can work out for pricing options. btw- i lmao at...