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I remember my first boost. Surprised the hell out of me and I got to the end of the block way faster than I should have. Lol stop sign... Haha Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

I would pull the baffels out of the valve covers and clean it out. Chances are there's trapped sand under them. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

The fitment is close enough that it works, but bad enough that it bothers me. You could probably get away with just tweaking the problem areas.. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Very true. I had way too much fun with my n/a 7M with some exhaust mods and a cone filter. If I would have known any better, I would have put a factory intake on (came with the cone filter), but still. Even with probably 150k on the engine, it had plenty of power for me. And then I decided...

Haha, if I would have raced anyone, it wouldn't have even been any competition. I'm probably putting down 200 horsepower. 0-60 in 8 seconds? Hell yea!

I saw a ton of pictures on 1320s fb page... I was jealous lol Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

How was the 2013 icc? I was totally gonna go.. until I realised my move in date was the 3rd... Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Huh. Well I guess my cable is too long. Wanna trade mister 2j 240? Haha And what? You're cross breeding sockets??? Now that's just too far man. I can understand engines.. hell, even wrenches! But sockets??? Don't tell me you're cross breeding ratchets too... Oh god... Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Let the machine shop deal with it lol Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Leave. Just leave. I'm not even going to bother. Edit.. I'm just going to say this. Car culture was BASED ON making your car faster. That is what a hot rod is. Taking a small car and putting a big, powerful engine in it. Who cares who puts their name on it. In the end, its all internal...

I wanna say the impact I used was 800 ft. Lbs. A 2x4 was used to stop the crank from rotating and it didn't split or anything. 220 pounds over 7 ft makes over 1500 ft lbs of torque. That's what I would really be worried about on the engine stand lol. But that should loosen that bolt easy...

And this is why I hate most kids. They're ruining car culture. Enjoy cars. Seriously. 240 with a 2JZ, 240z with a 1uz, Camaro with a 2JZ, Supra with an LS1, stop being an immature ass and enjoy cars. Besides.. cross manufacturer engine "swaps" are coming from the factory anyway. 80s Chevy...

I rented 3/4 drive impact. Had the bolt out in 2 seconds. The only way I would ever try a breaker bar is if the engine was in the car. No WAY I would trust an engine stand with that much weight Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

I guess I should have said that too... Oops. :P Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

So glad I live in a state that doesn't do emissions testing... ;D Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

Grim and IJ., you both bring up good points with dual pump setups. Both of your ideas would create a system that would run just fine on a single pump. I was more of referring to the OP, because he's simply running lex afm and 550s, with a 57 trim. Maybe a tune lol. But all he really needs for...

I'm not all that happy with the driftmotion/cx racing kit.. First of all, its incredibly difficult to get all the piping to line up with the inlet and outlet on the same side, and secondly, the pipe coming from the turbo to the intercooler hits the sway bar. It's probably just because im lowered...

Oil will ALWAYS increase compression numbers. Simply because its a fluid and therefore cannot be compressed. That's atleast the way I look at it. If someone knows more definitely correct me. I can always know more! Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

I would feel much better running a single pump. For this reason alone. If one pump on a single pump setup fails, the car doesn't run. If one pump on a twin pump setup fails, the car runs lean and melts a piston. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA

If theyre anything like head studs, then with motor oil you should actually torque them more than with their arp lube. Sent from my HTC Droid DNA